18
15. Reconnect the two wires to the element and then check
to make sure the thermostat remains firmly against the
surface of the tank.
FIGURE 24.
16. Replace terminal cover on thermostat making sure that the
locking tabs on the terminal cover are in place.
FIGURE 25.
17. Replace the insulation to cover the thermostat and
the element.
FIGURE 26.
18. Replace access panel.
19. Turn “ON” electric power to water heater.
FIGURE 27.
Drain Valve Washer Replacement.
NOTE: For replacement, use a 17/32” x 13/64” x 1/8” thick
washer available at your nearest hardware store. For ordering
a replacement washer, refer to the “Repair Parts List” section.
• Before beginning turn “OFF” the electrical power supply to the
water heater.
• Follow “Draining” instructions in the “Service and Adjustment” section.
• Turning counter clockwise, remove the hex cap below the
screw handle.
• Remove the washer and put the new one in place.
• Screw the handle and cap assembly back into the drain valve
and retighten using a wrench.
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN
.
• Follow “Filling the Water Heater” instructions in the “Installation
Instructions” section.
• Check for leaks.
• Turn “ON” electric power to the water heater.
FIGURE 28.
Anode Rod Inspection
Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, which
will slowly deplete (due to electrolysis) prolonging the life
of the water heater by protecting the glass-lined tank from
corrosion. Adverse water quality, hotter water temperatures,
high hot water usage, hydronic heating devices, and water
softening methods can increase the rate of anode rod
depletion. Once the rod is depleted, the tank will start to
corrode, eventually developing a leak.
Certain water conditions will cause a reaction between
the anode rod and the water. The most common complaint
associated with the anode rod is a “rotten egg smell” produced
from the presence of hydrogen sulfide gas dissolved in
the water. IMPORTANT: Do not remove this anode rod
permanently as it will void any warranties. A special anode
rod may be available if water odor or discoloration occurs.
NOTE: This anode rod may reduce but not eliminate water
odor problems. The water supply system may require special
filtration from a water conditioning company to successfully
eliminate all water odor problems.
The anode rod should be inspected after a maximum of three
years and annually thereafter until the condition of the anode
rod dictates its replacement. NOTE: Artificially softened water
requires the anode rod to be inspected annually.
The following are typical (but not all) signs of a depleted
anode rod:
• The majority of the anode rod’s diameter is less than 3/8”.
• Significant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or more
of the anode rod’s length) are visible.
If the anode rod show signs of either or both it should be
replaced. NOTE: Whether re-installing or replacing the anode
rod, check for any leaks and immediately correct if found.
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