Honda CG125 TITAN ES, Руководство по обслуживанию

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Chapter 5 Wheels, brakes and tyres
91
15 Rear wheel: replacement
1 Clean and grease the rear wheel spindle, check that the
sprocket and dust cover have been refitted to the hub left-hand
side, and refit the brake plate assembly to the drum. Fit one of
the chain adjusting drawbolts under the spindle head.
2 Note that while the spindle can physically be fitted either
way round it is usually shown in the manufacturer's literature as
being fitted from right to left and is generally found to be fitted
this way on new machines. However, if it is fitted from left to
right, so that the nut is on the right-hand side, the task of wheel
removal is greatly eased by the fact that it is no longer
necessary to remove the exhaust system.
3 Fit the wheel to the swinging arm fork ends and refit the
spindle, ensuring that both spacers and drawbolts are correctly
positioned. Refit and lightly tighten the spindle nut. Connect the
brake torque arm to the brake plate, and the brake rod to the
actuating lever, then adjust the chain as described in Section
14.
4 Applying the rear brake firmly, tighten the spindle nut to a
torque setting of 4.0 - 5.0 kgf
(29 - 36 ft) and secure it
by fitting a new split pin with its ends bent over correctly.
Tighten securely the torque arm retaining nut and refit its spring
pin, then adjust the rear brake and
switch as
described in Section 13.
5 Lubricate the chain and refit the enclosure, ensuring that all
mating surfaces are correctly engaged before the mounting
bolts are secured.
16 Tyres: removal and replacement
1 At some time or other the need will arise to remove and
replace the tyres, either as the result of a puncture or because a
replacement is required to offset wear.
inexperienced,
tyre changing represents a formidable task yet if a few simple
•rules are observed and the technique learned, the whole opera-
tion is surprisingly simple.
2 To remove the tyre from either wheel, first detach the wheel
from the machine by following the procedure in Chapter 5.3 or
5.9, depending on whether the front or the rear wheel is
involved. Deflate the tyre by removing the valve insert and when
it is fully deflated, push the bead of the tyre away from the
wheel rim on both sides so that the bead enters the centre welt
of the rim. Remove the locking cap and push the tyre valve into
the tyre itself.
3 Insert a tyre lever close to the valve and lever the edge of
the tyre over the outside of the wheel rim. Very little force
should be necessary; if resistance is encountered it is probably
due to the fact that the tyre beads have not entered the well of
the wheel rim all the way round the tyre.
4 Once the tyre has been edged over the wheel rim, it is easy
to work around the wheel rim so that the tyre is completely free
on one side. At this stage, the inner tube can be removed.
5 Working from the other side of the wheel, ease the other
edge of the tyre over the outside of the wheel rim that is
furthest away. Continue to work around the rim until the tyre is
free completely from the rim.
6 If a puncture has necessitated tyre removal, reinflate the
inner tube and immerse it in a bowl of water to trace the source
of the leak. Mark its position and deflate the tube. Dry the tube
and clean the area around the puncture with a petrol soaked
rag. When the surface has dried, apply the rubber solution and
allow this to dry before removing the backing from the patch
and applying the patch to the surface.
7 It is best to use a patch of self vulcanising type, which will
form a very permanent repair. Note that it may be necessary to
remove a protective covering from the top surface of the patch,
after it has sealed in position. Inner tubes made from synthetic
rubber may require a special type of patch and adhesive, if a
satisfactory bond is to be achieved.
8 Before replacing the tyre, check the inside to make sure the
agent that caused the
is not trapped. Check also the
outside of the tyre — particularly the tread area, to make sure
nothing is trapped that may cause a further puncture.
9 If the inner tube has been patched on a number of past
occasions, or if there is a tear or large
it is preferable to
discard it and fit a replacement. Sudden deflation may cause an
accident, particularly if it occurs with the front wheel.
To replace the tyre, inflate the inner tube sufficiently for it to
assume a circular shape but only just. Then put it into the tyre
so that it is enclosed completely. Lay the tyre on the wheel at an
angle and insert the valve through the rim tape and the hole in
the wheel rim. Attach the locking cap on the first few threads,
sufficient to hold the valve captive in its correct location.
1 1 Starting at the point furthest from the valve, push the tyre
bead over the edge of the wheel rim until it is located in the
central well. Continue to work around the tyre in this fashion
until the whole of one side of the tyre is on the rim. It may be
necessary to use a tyre lever during the final stages.
12 Make sure there is no pull on the tyre valve and again com-
mencing with the area furthest from the valve, ease the other
bead of the tyre over the edge of the rim. Finish with the area
close to the valve, pushing the valve up into the tyre until the
locking cap touches the rim. This will ensure the inner tube is
not trapped when the last section of the bead is edged over the
rim with a tyre lever.
13 Check that the inner tube is not trapped at any point.
Reinflate the inner tube and check that the tyre is seating
correctly around the wheel rim. There should be a thin rib
moulded around the wall of the tyre on both sides, which should
be equidistant from the wheel rim at all points. If the tyre is
unevenly located on the rim, try bouncing the wheel when the
tyre is at the recommended pressure. It is probable that one of
the beads has not pulled clear of the centre well.
14 Always run the tyres at the recommended pressures and
never under or over-inflate. The correct pressures for solo use
are given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter.
15 Tyre replacement is aided by dusting the side walls,
particularly in the vicinity of the beads, with a liberal coating of
French chalk. Washing up liquid can also be used to good effect,
but this has the disadvantage of causing the inner surfaces of
the wheel rim to rust.
Never replace the inner tube and tyre without the rim tape
in position. If this precaution is overlooked there is good chance
of the ends of the spoke nipples chafing the inner tube and
causing a crop of punctures.
17 Never fit a tyre that has a damaged tread or side walls.
Apart from the legal aspects, there is a very great risk of a
out, which can have serious consequences on any two-wheel
vehicles.
Tyre valves rarely give trouble, but it is always advisable to
check whether the valve itself is leaking before removing the
tyre. Do not forget to fit the dust cap, which forms an effective
second seal.