7
Step #8: Using Fig 1.1 on page 5 for reference, you will see 2 large factory
harnesses between “A” and “B”. Wiggle the amp/plate into place
around these harnesses so that the holes on the “legs” at the bottom
of the plate line up with the holes where the factory bolts around “B”
were.
With the plate in position, reinstall the factory bolts around “B” which
will secure the Master amp on its plate to the bike.
Step #9: Take the second (Slave) amp and plug the second power connector
from the splitter power into the amp. Locate the harness labeled “input
link”. Take the 8 pin plug on the input link and plug it into the “audio
input” on the “Slave” (front side) amplifier. The black 4 pin plug on
the rear harness will plug into the “amplified output” on the slave (front
side) amplifier. On the input link now plugged into the Slave (front side)
amplifier, there are 2 empty blue 4 pin plugs. The white 4 pin plug on
the rear harness will plug into the mating blue plug on the input link.
The leftover blue plug on this input link may be used later to send music
to additional amplifiers as they become available.
You can now “stick” the Slave (front) amplifier to the plate in the same
orientation as shown in Fig 1.4.
Fig 1.4
Step #10: Attach the amp’s brown wire to the negative (-) battery terminal and the
amp’s red wire to the positive (+) battery terminal. The factory battery
wires are also re-installed at this point. When attaching the power and
ground wires, it is always a good practice to do the negative first.
When the positive connector touches the battery, some sparking is
normal. This is a function of the capacitors in the amplifiers charging up.