15
Water:
Up to half the weight of
freshly cut logs is water. After
proper seasoning only about 20%
of the weight is water. As the wood
is heated in the firebox, this water
boils off, consuming heat energy in
the wood, the more heat energy is
consumed. That is why wet wood
hisses and sizzles while dry wood
ignites and burns easily.
Smoke (or flame):
As the wood
heats up above the boiling point
of water, it starts to smoke. The
hydrocarbon gases and tars that
make up the smoke are combus-
tible if the temperature is high
enough and oxygen is present.
When the smoke burns, it makes
the bright flames that are charac
-
teristic of a wood fire. If the smoke
does not burn, it will condense in
the chimney forming creosote or
exit the chimney as air pollution.
Charcoal:
As the fire progresses
most of the gases have vapor-
ized, charcoal remains. Charcoal
is almost 100% carbon and burns
with very little flame or smoke.
Charcoal is a good fuel that burns
easily and cleanly when enough
oxygen is present. Of the total
energy content of the wood you
burn, about half is in the form of
smoke, and half is charcoal.
UNDERSTANDING COMBUSTION
Break In Fires for New Stoves:
If this is your first fire, OR you have installed a replacement
set of brick, read the procedure for break-in fires. Proper
seasoning ensures longer stove life.
Woodburning:
The firewood you use will make an important contribution
to successful operation. You will achieve the best perfor-
mance and overall efficiency by burning firewood that has
been split, stacked and air-dried undercover from rain for
at least one year. Burning improperly seasoned or "green"
wood can be a frustrating experience leading to poor per-
formance, smoky fires and a build-up of creosote. Do not
burn saltwater driftwood refuse, rubber tires, etc. Use of
improper fuels can cause a fire hazard and lead to a pre
-
mature deterioration of the stove components, voiding the
warranty. (See Figure 18, Understanding Combustion.)
Burn dry wood because:
• It gives up to 25% higher efficiency;
• It produces less creosote;
• It ignites faster and smokes less;
• Valuable heat is lost in the fire as it dries out wet wood.
Getting Acquainted:
This cookstove is a time proven heating and cooking appli-
ance. Take your time to acquaint yourself with the principles
on which your new stove operates as a heater and cooking
stove.
Understanding the primary principles of the air intake
controls, the oven damper, the flame path for the fire and
the relationship to the chimney will give you a very compre-
hensive understanding of what you are trying to accomplish
with the stove.
Before starting the stove, lift the key plate handle and rest
the arm in the top hook of the shelf bracket. Open both
the top loading and ash pan doors. The doors open by lift-
ing slightly over the hook and pulling towards you.
Always use the lid lifter to open doors and bell damp-
ers and when adjusting the oven damper.
In the cookstove, looking into the firebox through the top
you will see firebrick liners on the left and right side of the
firebox.
At the bottom of the firebox is the wood grate, looking in
through the ash pan door, you will see the wood grate
pull—slide it back and forth and looking down into the fire
-
box you will see the slots open and close.
Wood
grate pull
Slots, open
and close
Figure 19
Figure 18
!
CAUTION