Hafler DH-200, Руководство по сборке и эксплуатации

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the right side, nearest the power switch. Install the two
sets of hardware to secure the bracket to the chassis. If
the bracket twists as the screws are tightened, first in­
stall the capacitor, and clamp it. Make sure the capaci­
tor is tight against the chassis, and that its positive ( + )
terminal is toward the
right side of the chassis before
tightening the clamp. Position the lug on the ( + ) ter­
minal (it will be painted red if it is not marked with a
+ ) so it points forward toward the power switch, and
tighten its screw. Point the negative terminal lug
toward the rectifier block to the left, and tighten that
screw. Make sure no wires are trapped by the bracket.
40 • Select the remaining capacitor, its bracket, two sets of
hardware, the long #10 hardware, the two short #10
screws, and the two solder lugs. Install this assembly as
in the preceding step, but be sure the positive lug of the
capacitor is nearest the center, pointing toward the
other capacitor's negative lug. The negative lug of this
second capacitor points forward.
41 • Select the white wire from RB lug 4 ( ) and
connect it to CR lug #2.
42 • Prepare a 4-3/4" white wire. Connect one end to FR
lug #3. (S-2). Connect the other end to CR lug #2.
(S-2).
43 • Prepare a 6" green wire. Connect one end to RB lug
#1. (S). Connect the other end to C L lug #1.
44 • Prepare a 4-3/4" green wire. Connect one end to F L
lug #1. (S-2). Connect the other end to C L lug #1.
(S-2).
45 • Remove all of the insulation from a 2-3/4" white wire.
Connect one end to C L lug #2. (S). Connect the other
end to CR lug #1. (S).
46 • Connect the red/yellow transformer lead to the center
of the bare wire between the capacitor lugs. (S).
47 • Connect the separate green wire from output terminal
Bl to the center of the bare wire, next to the
transformer lead. (S).
48 • Connect the separate green wire from B4 to the center
of the bare wire also. (S).
49 • Select the output assembly modules (the two major
items in the kit). You will note that the only difference,
which identifies the left or the right module, is the posi­
tion of the thermal breaker, which is located between
one pair of output transistors on the heat sink rib.
Before connecting wires to these modules it is best that
you take the time to make absolutely certain that each
eyelet is well soldered to the circuitry on the back (in­
side) of the board. Add a little solder if necessary, but it
is important that solder flow from the wire, across the
eyelet, and onto the circuitry. Then if you wish to clear
the center of the eyelet for easier insertion of the wire,
use a round wooden toothpick after heating each
eyelet. Now position the right module (with the
breaker at the front when the long row of eyelets is next
to the chassis) with the circuit board up, against the
chassis.
Wires will be connected from the top ot the board, and they
must be soldered to the underside. Even though the connect­
ing wires will be rather long when the amplifier is completed,
they are just long enough to reach now, so working room is
limited. It is best to heat the eyelet from below while the wire
is inserted from above. That requires an iron with a small flat
chisel tip — and some care on your part. It is easiest to melt a
small blob of solder on the tip, and position it under the
eyelet so that the solder blob, more than the tip itself, is heat­
ing the eyelet. If the eyelet is first filled with solder, and the
wire end pushed all the way through the heated eyelet first,
then withdrawn part way to expose a bit of the bare end
above the board before the solder cools, you should have a
firmly soldered connection if it cools undisturbed.
Always tin a wire that is to connect to an eyelet. After solder­
ing, go back and check by twisting each wire, to make sure
nothing moves on the other side of the board. Be careful, too,
that you don't loosen existing connections .to adjacent
eyelets. For a bit better access to these connections, you may
wish to remove the three mounting screws to allow the circuit
board to be moved, but don't forget the nylon washers under
the board.
50 • Select one of the narrow numbered strips, and peel off
the backing. This identifies the eyelet numbers, and
should be placed along the bottom of the circuit board,
with eyelet #14 nearest the power switch.
51 • Prepare a 6" white wire. Connect one end to eyelet #4
of the circuit board. (S).
52 • Prepare a 5-112" green wire. Connect one end to eyelet
#13. (S). Make sure it cannot contact the transistor
mounting screw near the underside.
53 • Select the green and white twisted pair from the output
terminals R3 and B4. Connect the shorter green wire to
eyelet #6. (S).
54 • Select the pair of white wires from RF. Connect the
shorter wire to eyelet #8. (S). Connect the other wire
to eyelet #11. (S).
55 • Connect the remaining white wire from the green and
white pair from the output terminals to eyelet #12. (S).
56 • Connect the green wire from eyelet 13 to FR lug #2.
(S).
57 • Connect the white wire from eyelet 4 to FR lug #4. (S).
58 • Select four of the long sheet metal screws. Take care to
see that no wires are pinched in the process, while you
tilt up and fasten the module to the end of the chassis.
59 • Select the green and white pair from input socket RS.
Connect the white wire to the top rear eyelet # 1. (S).
Connect the green wire to eyelet #2. (S). This pair will
be specifically positioned later.
60 • Select the white pair at the front. Tuck the excess wire
into the corner of the chassis, and connect one lead to
each of the lugs on the thermal breaker. Solder each.
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