- Pag. 6. -
4. Inflate the air chambers until the correct pressures have been reached.
Start with the negative spring (
LOWER VALVE
, on the small diameter of the shock) and next the
positive spring (
TOP VALVE
on the large diameter of the shock).
5. These shock pressures enable you to set up the shock 95% correctly. It is impossible to take into
consideration deviations in the air pump gauge and the rear shock. Therefore we suggest making
the following simple steps, which offer two more ways to achieve the 100% correct setting. The
finishing touch to get to the “zero-SAG” setting will give the optimal efficiency and the best
performance.
It is important to understand that the shock should be delicately set on the edge of “zero-SAG” and
not with too high positive pressure. Therefore this procedure goes from a little bit too low positive
air pressure to just enough positive air pressure to achieve “zero-SAG”.
6. Put the bike against a wall and make sure there is a zip tie or O-ring around the rear shock piston.
7. Sit on the bike (during stand still). Pull the zip tie against the stop of the rear shock piston. Sit still
on the saddle, without bobbing. Make sure you sit on the bike like you normally would. Push gently
one of the pedals, like you would do during real riding (while keeping the front wheel locked with
the front brake).
8. Shift your body weight gently from the saddle to the front fork and try to dismount without causing
too much movement in the bike.
9. Check the zip tie. Did it slide down on the piston? If yes, this means there is some “SAG”.
REMEMBER: FOR MAXIMUM EFFICIENCY THE NRS
TM
SYSTEM SHOULD ALWAYS BE SET
UP WITH ZERO “SAG” !!!
10. Increase the pressure of the positive spring in repetitive steps of 5 or 10 psi. following the points 7,
8 and 9 until “zero-SAG” is reached.
11. It is essential to set up the NRS
TM
system with zero “SAG”. Here’s the final check: ride the bike with
NRS
TM
system with a relatively high RPM on a nicely paved road. In case the bike tends to “bob”
with small motions, then increase the positive spring by another 10 psi. Now try again and the
result should be, that the bike does not “bob” anymore, whether sitting on the saddle or climbing or
sprinting out of the saddle.
12. Note: the air pump which is supplied free of charge with the XtC bike is equipped with an escape
valve (the black knob below the gauge) to de-pressurise the shock when the pressure is too high.
13. Note: the shock setting should be checked regularly (at least every 2 weeks). Of course the
simplest way to check is the asphalt paved road test with high RPM (see point no. 11).
14. Note: by putting the pump on the shock, the valve is opened and always some air pressure will be
lost (between 10 and 15 psi.). By taking the air pump from the valve no air pressure will be lost.
A small amount of air can be heard escaping, this is between the valve and the gauge.
15. Note: when the shock is set up for the first time and has to be inflated from 0 psi., the temperature
in the air chamber will rapidly rise. Afterwards the temperature inside will drop slowly. Together with
the drop in temperature some air pressure will be lost. Therefore the pressure has to be checked
again after approx. 15 minutes.
16. Note: air shocks are sensitive to big temperature changes. Especially in winter when the bike is
taken outside, the air pressure setting has to be checked again outside.
17. Once you understand the routine of correctly setting up the NRS
TM
suspension system, and have
experienced what the bike can do for you (MORE POWER), you can then try to slightly modify the
air shock setting to your own personal needs. Riding tests can be made with the pressure of the
negative spring under two conditions:
A. always maintain the same big difference (same ratio) between positive and negative spring like
the final setting in step 11, and
B. always maintain the “ZERO-SAG” principle.
Have fun!
TOP
INDEX
