13. Saddle
The saddle is an important component of your bike. There
are various types of saddle: the saddle on a racing bike is
hard and narrow, the saddle on a more comfort-oriented
bike is wider and softer. Gel saddles are fitted on many
models. These saddles can mould themselves to the rider
and distribute the pressure on the rider’s seat over the
saddle. Gel saddles must not be left in the sun for too long;
this can actually overheat the filling.
Adjustment
The best way to test the height of your saddle is by sitting
on the bike. You must be able to touch the ground with
the toes of one foot while you rest the heel of your other
foot on the pedal at bottom dead centre. Your leg should
then be almost fully stretched but still feel relaxed
(see
fig. 101)
. If you have the ball of your foot resting on the
pedal, your leg will be slightly bent. If you can touch the
ground with both feet, then your saddle is set too low. If
you go frequently on long sporty rides, then you are best
angling the nose of the saddle slightly downwards. If you
use your bike mainly for short trips, then it is usually more
comfortable to sit upright and angle the saddle slightly
upwards.
If you want to adjust the height of your saddle
(see figs.
102 to 107)
then all you need to do is slacken the bolt
(A)
(13 mm open-ended spanner) or the socket head cap bolt
(5 mm or 4 mm on Ultimate models) on the chain side. You
can then adjust the saddle as you wish. Tighten the bolt
firmly once you have finished. Bolt
(B)
enables you to adjust
the saddle fore and aft and set the saddle angle
(C)
. You
will need a 5 mm Allen key for both of these bolts.
Do you have a suspension seatpost
(figs. 106 to 108)
?
Adjust the lateral play with the socket head cap bolt
(D)
using a 4 mm Allen key. You can adjust the stiffness of the
suspension at the lower end of the seatpost
(fig. 108, E)
using an Allen key
(6 mm)
. Turning it clockwise increases
the spring tension, turning it in the opposite direction
reduces tension.
101
102
103
104
105
40
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