The power and signal pads on the PCB
conform to the FuzzDog Direct Connection
format, so can be paired with the
appropriate daughterboard for quick and
easy offboard wiring.
Be very careful when soldering the
transistors and diodes. They’re very
sensitive to heat. You should use some
kind of heat sink (crocodile clip or reverse
action tweezers) on each leg as you solder
them. Keep exposure to heat to a
minimum (under 2 seconds).
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so
they can be mounted flush in the box.
The cathode (striped end) of the diodes go into the square pads. Those germaniums have very
delicate casings. You should place some needle-nosed pliers right against the body while
gripping the leg, then bend it against the pliers rather than directly on the body. If you attempt to
bend the leg without protecting the join to the body there’s a very good chance you’ll crack the
glass casing.
The anode (long leg) of electrolytic capacitors go into the square pads. C14 can be placed flat
across the PCB as shown in the cover image to ensure plenty of clearance in the enclosure.
Pots mounts on the back side of the board. You can use vertical-mount pots or just wire up
‘normal’ ones.
You should solder all components before you solder the pots. Once they’re in place you’ll have no
access to much of the underside of the board.
It’s useful to place the pots in the holes in the enclosure when soldering to make sure you get
them all the right height and position. Solder one leg of each pot first, then check them for
position. Melt and adjust if necessary. Get them all
even before soldering the other two pins of each.
If your pots have plastic covers, sweet. If not, be
careful to keep the bases away from the PCB pads.
Slip some thick card between the pots and the PCB
while you solder them in to space them nicely.
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