Be very careful when soldering the diodes, LED and transistors. They’re very sensitive to heat. You should
use some kind of heat sink (crocodile clip or reverse action tweezers) on each leg
as you solder them. Keep exposure to heat to a minimum (under 2 seconds).
The striped leg (cathode) of the diodes go into the square pads. For the LEDs, the
shorter leg goes into the square pad.
The long leg (anode) of the electrolytic capacitors go into the square pads.
These can all lay flat as shown in the image on the first page. This will give you
plenty of clearance in the enclosure.
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can be mounted flush in the box.
Pot mounts on the back side of the board. You can use vertical-mount pots or just wire
up ‘normal’ ones. It’s a good idea to place the pots in their holes in the enclosure when you’re soldering
them in place on the PCB. That way you know they’re going to line up ok. Best way to do it is to solder a
single pin of each pot in place, then do a visual check to see that they’re all sitting at the same height. If
not, melt the joints and re-adjust any that are off.
Similarly, for the toggle switch it’s best to solder a single lug then check it for position. If not straight or
flat, melt the joint and reposition before soldering the
other two lugs.
If your pots don’t have protective plastic covers you should place a strip of thick card between them and the
board when soldering to keep them a good distance from the pcb to avoid shorting other components.
You should solder all other board-mounted components before you solder the pots. Once they’re in place
you’ll have no access to much of the underside of the board.
Make sure your footswtich lugs are horizontal as shown above when soldering into the daugherboard. It’s a
good idea to place them in the holes in the enclosure when doing this to ensure they line up ok.
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