The power and signal pads on the PCB
conform to the FuzzDog Direct Connection
format, so can be paired with the
appropriate daughterboard for quick and
easy offboard wiring. Check the separate
daughterboard document for details.
Be very careful when soldering the diodes
and transistors. They’re very sensitive to
heat. You should use some kind of heat
sink (crocodile clip or reverse action
tweezers) on each leg as you solder them.
Keep exposure to heat to a minimum
(under 2 seconds).
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so
they can be mounted flush in the box.
Positive (anode) legs of the electrolytic cap
goes to the square pad.
C14 can be laid flat to the PCB as shown
on the cover image. This will give more
clearance in your enclosure.
Negative (cathode) legs of the diodes go to
the square pads.
D7 is an optional polarity protection diode.
If you want to include one, use a 1N4001 or
any other 400X variant.
TWO SETS OF TONE PADS?
Yes. Use the centralised pads above R25 for a
3-pot build, and the ones off to the right of
the PCB for a 4-pot build. There’s no need
for any jumpers in either situation. Both sets
of pads are directly linked to each other.
THAT SCOOPED MID-RANGE
- NO THANKS!
The Big Fluff Pie has a distinctive scooped
mid-range. In most cases this can be
flattened out if desired. For the versions
listed in the first BOM page, this can be
achieved by changing R18 and R19 to 39K,
and C10 to 10n.
MOJO?
Many different transistors have been used
across the history of the BFP, some of which
are long gone. All of the ‘stock’ Fluffs listed
on the first BOM page are supplied with
2N5088.
While these may not always be the vintage-
correct parts, they have been found to be the
best commonly-available all-rounder in a
BFP.
There are additional notes regarding
individual circuits later in the document.
Please check them before starting your
build.
Not sure what to make?
Check out
Kit Rae’s
page.
Astounding work.
Notes
