Connecting the RO System
I. Tubing
Measure a length of white tubing (Inlet Tubing) to be installed between the FWA and the ‘Inlet’ port on the
filter system. Cut using a sharp Box Cutter knife or tube cutters. When connecting to the system refer to the
‘Quick Connect Fitting’ Instructions. To connect to the FWA, unscrew the lock nut until it hits a stop end.
Push the tubing in firmly until you feel it ‘seat’. Finally, tighten the locking nut to secure the tubing – this will
prevent the tubing from releasing.
Measure a length of blue tubing to go between the Storage Tank & the Tank Tee fitting located on the final
stage filter.
Measure a length of black tubing to go between the Drain clamp & the Flow Restrictor (Labelled Drain
Line).
Measure a length of white tubing to go between the Faucet & the Final Stage filter (Labelled To Faucet)
System Start Up & Operation
I. Plumber Commissioning Steps
When you are confident that the system is correctly installed, do the following steps to start up the system
and commence the flushing procedure.
1. Open the faucet tap – This helps bleed air from the system when you introduce the feed water.
2. Close the Storage tank valve – we want the system & filters to be totally wetted down and full to
allow the air to escape.
3. Smoothly open the FWV allowing water to enter the system, it is common to hear and see sputtering
as the water makes its way through the system forcing out the air.
NOTE: Check for any leaks, if there are leaks, shut off the water, fix them and continue.
4. It will take a few minutes for the water to make its way out the faucet due to the low flow rate of the
membrane. The drain line however should begin to run as soon as water reaches the membrane.
5. When the water first comes out of the tap, it will be grey and discoloured – this is normal as the
carbon fines are flushed out of the dry filters.
NOTE: Air bubbles are also common in the water – it gives the water a ‘milky’ appearance.
This will eventually dissipate as the air is flushed from the system – this can sometimes take
a few days to stop completely. The water is still safe to drink.
6. Once the faucet comes to a steady trickle of water and stops sputtering, close the faucet tap. This
should trigger the systems automatic shut off within 1 minute (Water should stop flowing). If the
water does not shut off within 60 seconds, it could be due to an air lock in the shut off valve which is
common for new installs.
7. Open the tank valve so the tank can begin filling. The tank will take up to 2 hours to fill depending
on several factors.
II. Client can Complete Commissioning
Note for Plumbers: At this point, if you are confident that the system is functioning correctly and
there are no signs of leaks or any concerns, you can finish your portion of the installation at this
point – ensure that the client is aware of the following steps to conduct next. We suggest that you
(As the plumber) understand the remaining portion of the manual in case the client has further
questions or to help basic troubleshooting.
8. When the tank has had long enough to fill, open the faucet tap on the sink and allow all the stored
water to flush out the system. You should notice some discolouration/cloudiness which is normal.
Repeat this process at
least
2 times to clear the fines from the system.
The RO membrane has a small amount of food grade anti-bacterial preserve inside it which will be
flushed out during these flushes. Air bubbles are common to remain in the system for up to 2 weeks
but they will disappear quicker if the system is flushed more or used frequently.
9. A standard 4 stage system is not fitted with an alkaline filter (remineralising filter). If your system is
fitted with an alkaline filter (Usually the GT6-18LS) the following applies: The system is an alkaline
unit which means minerals are dissolved into the water to balance the pH and ‘alkalise’ the water.
When the system is new the pH can be higher than normal (which is still safe to drink) but you may
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