8.
Carefully slide the ends of the top tube (A) over each of the splice sleeves (E) in the top of the side tubes (B) & (C).
9.
Secure the top tube (A) in position with a #8 screw (G) inserted through the pilot holes and into each of the splice sleeves (E). If you have
difficulty driving the screws, use a 9/64” bit to drill a pilot hole through the sleeves. Your frame is now ready for cables.
Stringing the Cables:
10.
For each cable (I), lace the threaded terminal fitting through a 7/16" OD nylon flat washer (J), then down through the hole in the top tube
(A) and continue on down through the hole in the bottom tube (D). The tip of the threads on the threaded terminal will just barely
protrude beyond the bottom of the bottom tube.
11.
For each cable (I), slide a 3/4" OD nylon flat washer (K) over the exposed threads on the threaded terminal fitting and then attach a Snug-‐
Grip® washer nut (L) and gently spin by hand until the threads engage and you start to feel resistance.
12.
Tighten the cables (I) a bit more by turning the Snug-‐Grip® washer nut (L) with a 7/16" wrench.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When initially
tightening the Snug-‐Grip® washer nuts, you will encounter resistance as the special Snug Grip® threads engage; hold the hexagonal
shaft of the threaded terminal with Vise-‐Grip® pliers to keep it from spinning. Only use hand tools to tighten the washer nuts in order to
avoid overheating the nuts and possibly causing the threads to seize. Do not over-‐tension the cables; they should simply hang straight
and flex easily.
13.
If necessary, trim any excess exposed threads with a hacksaw or electric grinder with cut-‐off disk, and then Snap black plastic caps (N) over
the raised lip of the Snug-‐Grip® washer nuts (L) to cover.
Hanging the Rods:
14.
With a measuring tape and felt pen, mark each cable (I) at the points where you'd like to attach the rods (O). Equal vertical spacing
between rods is recommended.
15.
Slide four cross-‐clamp fittings (P) onto each rod (O) and then loosely attach the rods to each cable (I) at the marked locations by gently
tightening the cross-‐clamp (P) setscrews using a 3/16" hex key wrench.
IMPORTANT NOTE: do not force the setscrews into the cross-‐
clamps as this might damage the threads; if you encounter any resistance, simply back off the setscrew slightly to re-‐align the threads
and then try again. The when properly aligned, the setscrews will smoothly and easily spin into the cross-‐clamp.
16.
Make any final adjustment to the rod (O) positions, and then securely tighten the setscrews on all cross-‐clamp fittings (P).
Erecting the Trellis Panel (Legs cast in gravel or concrete):
Note: the Greenway trellis can also be surface mounted using the optional Base Plate Kit (complete kits with instructions are sold separately;
please call for details 1-‐800-‐888-‐2418 or 1-‐510-‐893-‐9473).
17.
Dig two 6-‐inch minimum diameter holes 41-‐1/2" on center to a depth of 2-‐feet.
18.
Fill each hole to within 1-‐foot of the top with either compacting gravel (3/8" to dust) or concrete. If using gravel, compact it as much as
possible by tamping with the end of hefty piece of wood such as a long 2"x 4" or 4"x 4". If using concrete, tamp it lightly to settle and even
out the load.
19.
Set the legs of the trellis panel into the holes so that a minimum of 1-‐foot of each leg is below grade.
20.
Level and plumb the trellis panel and then fill the holes to the brim with your gravel or concrete. Compact the gravel or tamp the concrete
as described in step 18. Be sure to frequently check that your trellis is level and plumb. If using concrete, support the trellis until the
concrete sufficiently thickens.
21.
Step back and admire your work.
Questions? 1-‐800-‐888-‐2418 or 1-‐510-‐893-‐9473
Feeney Inc., 2603 Union Street, Oakland, California, 94607
