Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine Page 24
FARRIER MARINE
This is about the right position for the trailer when retrieving
are not fitted, they can be secured to the mast with Velcro
straps. This stops them from flopping around. An alter-
native is to loosely attach them to the float just in front of
the aft beams. This keeps them from moving, yet allows
the float to fold up.
Before folding, first check to see no one is on the side
being folded, and then undo the beam bolts. The beams
on the side first released may spring about 12" into the air
as the last bolt is undone. Hold the top of the beam and
lift upward to fold,
TAKING CARE NOT TO LET THE
FLOAT SWING IN TOO FAST AGAINST THE CENTER
HULL
which could damage the stops
.
You may have to
slow it down, particularly on later designs.
WARNING:
Take great care while folded in winds of 25 knots
or more. A combination of a high cross wind and a
fast tight turn may be sufficient to overcome the
folded stability, resulting in a rollover. Also do not
fold should any float compartment be flooded.
Once folded insert the beam locking pin.
If the float does not fold in fully, usual cause
is the wingnet catching on the aft corner of the
cabin side rail. To correct, just push the
wingnet down under the cabin side rail.
Now fold the second side. You may find
this initially more difficult, as the boat is heeled
this way, due to the first float folded lifting that
side. Crew weight on the already folded side
will help by levelling the boat out more. Lift,
and once again don’t let the float come in too
fast once it starts moving. Insert the beam
locking pin.
If anything seems hard or difficult when
folding, STOP and see if anything is mis-
aligned, or snagged. A common error is to try
and fold without disconnecting the stays. The
beam won't budge, so remember to check
this.
Raise the daggerboard and rudder, and cleat both in
the up position. You are now ready for the trailer.
If there is a cross wind, then a Side Guide Rail should
be fitted to the leeward side of the trailer. This prevents
the boat swinging sideways and off the trailer.
Back the trailer down into the water until the water
reaches the forward inward bend of the trailer side
members and the float supports are just visible above
water level. It should not be necessary to submerge the
trailer any further than this.
Gently guide the boat into the center and pull up as far
as it will go. Take care here, that it comes on straight, and
avoid pulling it over the center hull side supports, as this
can damage the Log paddlewheel sender unit on the
bottom of the hull (gets expensive to replace).
A side line from the windward aft cleat may also be
helpful in cross winds to prevent the stern swinging too far
sideways.
If motoring onto the trailer,
leave the daggerboard
down until the last minute
- otherwise any crosswind
makes it very difficult to keep on center. Once fully on,
connect the trailer winch hook, and winch on the remain-
ing few feet.
The boat can now be pulled from the water, and when
on level ground remember to check that it is fully winched
on. Once out of the water there always tends to be some
slack in the winch wire.
Tie an extra safety line
from the
bow eye down to the winch post, ready for de-rigging.
DE-RIGGING
Remove the bow line, separate the two lines, and use
as the side tie-downs. Fit the aft mast support and the
trailer lights.
Remove the jib and fold. The jib sheets can be stowed
in the anchor well ready for instant use next time. If
possible, the jib can be stowed inside one of the floats -
thus keeping it from cluttering up the main cabin.
If possible, relieve the tension on the battens, and
these can be left in the loosely rolled main. Remove the
roller furling handle (if fitted) and stow in the anchor well.
Folding can be done while motoring, but be careful in high
cross winds with larger designs
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