©
EUROHEAT
DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD. Nov 2004
E & OE Instructions Part number IN1011 Ed.3
6
Extended Wood Burning
Simply loading a huge quantity of wood into an idling stove and restricting the air supply is not the
way to achieve satisfactory extended burning. However dry the wood may seem it will contain some
moisture. This moisture will keep the wood and volatile gases below their ignition temperature until
it has been converted to water vapour and driven out of the stove. The volatile matter, instead of
burning to produce heat, will mix with water vapour and rapidly coat the stove with deposits and with
little protection from a very small
air wash
flow, the glass will become obscured.
Raising the firing rate of the stove for some time before loading, will allow the residual heat to drive
off the moisture from the wood as rapidly as possible and help maintain the temperature within the
stove to ensure the initial volatile gases are kept above their ignition temperature to burn cleanly.
When the fire is well established the
air wash
should be progressively closed to the position which
will hold the stoves burning rate at its minimum. This position will vary with each installation as it is
determined by the flue draught and wood being burned; experience is the only guide. Do not load
un-split, round section logs as these will invariably roll onto the glass to cause staining, as will the
emission of moisture laden gases from logs when loaded so that the end grain faces, and is near to
the glass.
Fuelling the Stove with Wood
Loading the stove through the top loading door, and having the
air wash vent
closed whilst refuelling
will minimize any fumes escaping from the stove. If the fire has become very low it is advisable to
rake the embers towards the front of the stove and allow the fire to glow brightly for a few minutes
by opening the
air wash
fully.
Always rake a portion of the embers towards the front of the stove and place the wood towards the
back of the stove as this will minimize the possibility of smoke reaching the glass and of the wood
itself falling against the glass. Obviously wet wood should never be burned, but all wood will contain
some water, and after loading the stove the door should be closed and the
air wash
opened
until the moisture has been driven from the wood and the newly introduced wood is burning well.
Unless this is done the slowly circulating smoke and water vapour will cause sooty deposits within
the stove. Refuelling "little and often" will give the most visually satisfying stove, and until you gain
the experience in operating your stove it will be the simplest method of operation. Successfully
burning large charges of fuel is only possible when you understand the operation of your stove, the
performance of your flue, and the characteristics of the wood you are burning.
Ash Removal with Wood
Because it is not necessary, nor desirable, to supply air to a wood fire through the grate, it is only
when the amount of ash above the grate becomes unsightly that riddling the grate becomes
desirable. Ash will, however, drop into the ash pan naturally and the ash pan should be checked
periodically, and certainly before riddling, to prevent ash overflowing from the ash pan into the stove.
Carrying an overflowing ash pan through the house is both messy and a fire hazard. The ash pan
withdrawing tool is not designed as a handle with which to carry the ash pan; use both hands and
wear heat proof gloves.
Leaving the ash door of the stove open allows an uncontrolled air supply into the stove and may
allow the stove to burn at a rate beyond its design capability. When removing ash replace the ash
pan as soon as possible. Make it a practice never to leave this door open as no stove will survive
being made to glow cherry red.
Stove in which the logs
have been positioned
to ensure gasses are not
directed at the glass
Stove in which the
log ends have been
directed at the glass
