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Fig. 5 shows stove and its controls.
Additional loose parts supplied inside your stove include:
•
A stove mitt – for removing the ash pan, adjusting the primary air controls, adjusting the airwash
control, and operating the door handle. Fig.5 shows how the stove mitt is used.
•
A flue blanking plug to blank the top flue outlet if the rear flue outlet is to be used.
Before lightning the fire for the first time ensure that the baffle, side and back bricks and all the internal
components are in position. Burning without either will result in the stove overheating and being damaged.
Open the air wash control and the primary air control fully. Place some tightly rolled paper on top of some
crumpled paper on the base towards the back of the stove. On top of this, place some small pieces of wood.
Light the crumpled paper and close the door. Once the fire becomes established add some larger pieces of
wood. As the stove comes up to temperature close the primary air control using the stove mitt as shown in
Fig.5. The burning rate of the stove can now be regulated by the rate at which fuel is added and by adjusting
the air wash control.
With the above in mind it is plain to see that the stove should ideally be run with the primary air inlet closed
and the air wash control open whenever possible. Another advantage of running the stove with the air wash
open is that the air being drawn into the stove travels across the glass forming an air barrier between the
glass and the fire bed helping to prevent smoke particles sticking to the glass.
If the fire dies down too low, opening the primary air control for a short period will revive it. When reviving a
low fire it is important to also use kindling before adding larger logs to help prevent smoke.
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Your Stove
WOOD BURNING
Lighting & Controlling the Stove
Wood burns most efficiently when the air for combustion is supplied from above the fire
bed rather than below. The air supplied above the fire bed provides the oxygen necessary
for the volatile gases (smoke), given off by the wood as it heats to combust. This ensures
that the gases are burnt and used to heat the stove instead of being wasted up the
chimney or condensing and forming tarry deposits inside the stove, in the flue or on the
stove glass. Running the stove with the primary air control open and the air wash control
closed will provide oxygen for the wood to burn on the fire bed but will not provide air for
the volatile gases above the fire bed to combust resulting in a smoky inefficient fire.
Parts of the appliance, especially the external surfaces, will be hot to touch
when in operation and due care will need to be taken.
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Only remove small amounts of ash from the firebox. When de-ashing, leave 30-40mm depth of ash in the
bottom of the firebox for the best performance. Always use the stove mitt to open and close the door.
To get the best results from your stove it is recommended that a wood stove thermometer (available from
your stove dealer) be fitted to the flue pipe above the stove, at eye level if possible. The figures below show
the recommended temperature of the flue gases:
115ºC – 245ºC (240ºF - 475ºF)
The flue gases should be in this temperature band for the safest, most efficient and most economical
operation of your stove.
Below 115ºC
This is below the condensation point of wood gases and may cause the build up of tar in the chimney, dirty
the stove glass and result in the inefficient burning of fuel.
Above 245ºC
Too hot. Heat will be wasted up the chimney. Excess heat may damage the stove or ignite any existing
accumulation of tar resulting in a chimney fire.
Loading a large amount of wood into the stove all at once will reduce the temperature inside the stove. If the
temperature is too low, the gases given off from the wood will be too low to combust resulting in a lot of
smoke covering the inside of the stove, including the glass, with soot. To combat this problem it is a good
idea to increase the temperature of the stove before loading by further opening the air inlets. Load the wood
and leave the air controls open until the moisture is driven out of the wood and the stove is back up to an
efficient operating temperature. The air inlets can then be reduced to the hold the temperature of the stove.
Loading the stove little and often will help keep the stove temperature steady. When loading wood, make
sure that the end grain of the wood in the stove is pointing away from the glass, otherwise the moisture and
gases coming from the end grain of the wood will dirty the glass.
For best results use well seasoned hardwood such as Oak, Ash, or Beech. Allow wood to dry out under
cover in well-ventilated conditions for at least twelve months. As a rough guide wood is ready for burning
when radial cracks appear in the end of the logs. Properly dry wood means it should have a moisture content
of between 15%–20% which can only be accurately measured using a moisture meter. Burning wood that is
not seasoned will result in tar being deposited in the stove, on the glass and in the flueways. This build up of
tar is a hazard and if it ignites may cause a chimney fire. Resinous softwood burns well and gives a high
output for short periods but is not as efficient and does not last as long as hardwood.
Ash Removal
Correct Running Temperature for Burning
Extended Burning
Types of Wood Fuel
The above text should be used as a guide only. The ideal operation of your stove depends
on a number of factors, which vary with each installation, and so gaining experience
operating your stove is the only way to learn its best operation.
