10/27/2016
10
BI516
7.
Zone Valves or Zone Pumps
– see Zone Controller section for options.
WARNING
THE END SWITCHES FROM THE ZONE VALVES
MUST BE
AN
ISOLATED CONTACT WITH NO
VOLTAGE PRESENT ON THESE WIRES OR SCREW TERMINALS. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT
TO MAKE SURE THERE ISN’T ANY INTERFERENCE OR FEEDBACK BETWEEN THE
TRANSFORMER OPERATING THE ZONE VALVE SYSTEM AND THE TRANSFORMER WITHIN
THIS ELECTRO-BOILER PRODUCT. ONCE THIS HAS BEEN DETERMINED, ALL END
SWITCHES ARE SIMPLY PARALLELED WITH THE TWO WIRES GOING TO “R” AND “W”.
8.
If this is a
dual heat
application with
standby boiler
, the 2 brown wires connect to the standby boiler
R and W or T and T. These 2 brown wires represent a contact closure to activate the standby boiler
during load control or when the front panel switch is in the “standby” position.
WATER ADDITIVES
1.
Unless the source water is unusually poor and/or rust elements, additives are not required. It is
recommended the water source as shown on drawing BX505 comes through the household water
softener or use distilled water.
2.
Impurities within a closed loop hydronics boiler are considerably less damaging than the typical
domestic water heater. In a closed loop electric boiler, the water impurities “boil out” and the
system essentially makes its own pure water. As a closed system, this “pure water” becomes the
operating mode. In the case of domestic water tank, there is always new water entering with new
impurities.
3.
However, if additives are required, use the recommendations and source from your local
professional plumber, specializing in hydronics heating systems.
WATER FILL PROCEDURE
The following procedure applies to non-glycol or antifreeze and prepackaged plumbing kit and/or when
the system is plumbed exactly as shown on drawing BX505.
CAUTION
If the building supply pressure is connected directly to supply water ball valve without pressure
reducing regulator, user needs to make sure the pressure within the boiler loop does not exceed 30
PSI. Careful control of the supply water ball valve opening can take care of this. Also at steps 6
and 10, use caution to make sure the building water supply pressure does not “spike” the system.
1.
Connect the temporary household water supply source (probably hose connection) to the "water
supply connection" input.
NOTE
: If water supply connection is permanent, some local building codes may require
special anti-siphon check valve, RPZ check valve, or equivalent between the boiler fill
regulator and the domestic water source or the city water connection.
2.
Connect a drain hose to hose bib, "drain valve".
3.
Open
"drain valve" and
close
"inlet gate valve" (between drain valve and boiler inlet).
4.
Verify “top gate valve” is
open
.
5.
Do not apply 240 heating power during water fill sequence.
6.
Open
“water supply valve” and
open
household water supply source.
7.
Allow system to circulate, discharging through drain valve, for at least 15 minutes.
8.
Put your ear against the metal pipe and listen for air bubbles. If the water flow is consistent and
quiet, the system is probably purged and water filled.
9.
Close
the "drain valve".
Open
the "inlet gate valve".
10.
The cold system pressure at the gauge should be approximately 10 to 14 PSI.
