WIRING THE KIT
The position of all wire leads should follow the diagram
closely, bearing in mind that the pictorial diagram has neces-
sarily been distorted somewhat to show all connections
clearly. See that uninsulated wires do not touch each other
unless, of course, they are connected to the same point. It
is especially important that uninsulated wires or component
leads or terminals do not touch the chassis accidentally.
Whenever one wire is to be soldered to a connection such
as a lug terminal or hole, the instructions will indicate this
by the symbol (S). If more than one wire is to be soldered
to the same point, the instructions will cite the number of
wires that should be connected to that point when it is to be
soldered. If no soldering instruction is specifically given, do
not solder; other connections will be made to that point
before soldering is called for.
Check your work after each step, and make sure the entire
step has been completed. When you are satisfied that it has
been correctly done, check the space provided and go on to
the next step. Be sure you read carefully the explanatory
paragraphs in the assembly instructions.
Where stranded wire is used, as on the transformer leads,
be very careful not to cut through the strands when stripping
the end. Where stranded wire is supplied for hookup wire
in the kit, the strands will be bonded together to minimize
this likelihood and make handling easier.
All mounting screws are installed from the
outside
of the
chassis, and a nut with lockwasher attached, called a
KEP
nut, is used except when otherwise specified.
This kit uses a variety of hardware. Before starting as-
sembly, separate all the hardware by using an egg
carton,
muffin pan, or small cups. #4, #6, #10 and 1/4" machine
screws with binder heads (flat tops with rounded sides) are
used in various lengths. Much of the hardware used is #4
binder head in a 5/16" length. There are also #6 oval head
screws with tapered sides, which are used only when attach-
ing the
XLR
connector to the chassis.
TAKE THE TIME TO BE NEAT AND ACCURATE,
and your amplifier will operate properly at first, and for
many years.
MECHANICAL ASSEMBLY
1( ) Select the "U" shaped bottom plate with slanted
sides, the four rubber feet, and four of the
1
/
4
"
diam-
eter bolts (the largest hardware). Insert a bolt
through each foot, and then mount a foot at each cor-
ner of the bottom plate on the
outside
(sides turned
away from you). No other hardware is required; the
bottom plate is supplied with threaded nuts for these
bolts. Set the assembly aside.
Select the black "L" shaped control bracket. Note that
the bottom edge of the inside surface turns toward you. The
three parts attached to this bracket will be mounted from
the
inside.
2( ) Select the 10,000 ohm control, part #145103, a
3
/
8
"
nut, and a
3
/
8
" thin lockwasher. Do not confuse this
with the 100,000 ohm control, part #144104, which
will be called for in the next step. Place a lockwasher
on the threaded shaft, install the control in location
BC with the lugs positioned as shown, and tighten
the nut.
3( ) Select the 100,000 ohm control, part #144104, a
3
/
8
"
nut, and a
3
/
8
" thin lockwasher. Place the lockwasher
on the shaft, install the control in location LC, posi-
tion the lugs as shown, and tighten the nut.
4( ) Select the meter switch, a
3
/
8
" nut, and the last
3
/
8
"
lockwasher. Place the lockwasher on the shaft, install
the switch in location MS, position the lugs as shown,
and tighten the nut.
Set this assembly aside, and place the front panel in front
of you. The front surface is printed. The parts attached to
this panel will be mounted from the
front.
5( ) Select the
square
fuse holder. Notice that one face is
marked "top". With this surface facing the top edge
of the front panel, press the fuse holder into the right
bottom square cutout. No hardware is used.
6( ) Select the power switch. Observe that the dark red
jewel is positioned toward the
bottom
edge of the
front panel. Press it into the left bottom rectangular
cutout. No hardware is used.
7( ) Select the meter, the two small lamps, the two lamp
sockets, the two pieces of insulating tubing, and six
#4
KEP
nuts (the smallest hardware). Install the
meter upright from the outside. Carefully secure the
meter with four
KEP
nuts.
Avoid excessive force,
since the meter is plastic. Snap each lamp into a
lamp socket to where the socket engages the lamp de-
tent, and then slip a piece of insulating tubing onto
the lamp socket to cover the metal portion of the
lamp and socket. Install a lamp socket on each of the
lower meter mounting studs. Fasten each socket
firmly with a second
KEP
nut.
Set this assembly aside, and select the chassis. The out-
side back edge is printed. Some of the parts will be mounted
from the outside, and others from the inside.
8( ) Select the 4-screw output barrier strip, and four each
5
/
8
" #6 screws and #6
KEP
nuts (next to the smallest
hardware). This output strip mounts
outside
the
chassis at the right back, so that its four lugs protrude
through the slot. Insert the screws from the outside,
and fasten with the
KEP
nuts on the inside. Make
sure that the lugs do not touch any chassis metal.
9( ) Select the output jack, and the last
3
/
8
"
nut. Install
the jack from the
inside
in the round hole adjacent to
the output strip, and fasten with the nut on the out-
side. Position the lugs and the flattened corner of the
jack, as shown in the Pictorial Diagram. Avoid ex-
cessive force on the plastic threads.
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