Removing the Rear Wheel
11
Removing the Front Wheel
Removing the front wheel is quite straight
forward.
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Undo the axle nuts and remove the safety
washers. The washers have a small hook
that holds the axle into the drop-outs
should the axle nuts become loose.
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To get the tyre past the brakes, the V-brake
cable can be released by pulling the cable
guide or “noodle” out of the cable bridge
or “noodle holder”.
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Don’t forget to put the noodle back before
you go for a ride.
Removing the rear wheel is slightly more involved than the
front wheel. Because of this Dillenger highly recommends
riding with the correct pressures in the tyres as it greatly
reduces the risk of getting a puncture. If you do suffer a
puncture it can be easier to repair the puncture without
removing the rear wheel.
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To remove the rear wheel, begin by removing the battery
and turn the bike over so it is resting on the seat and the
handlebars. You may need someone to hold the bike
steady as the bike can be unstable when upside own
depending on the height of the seat and handlebars.
●
With the bike inverted, take off the axle nuts and remove
the stand. Then remove the bolts that hold the drum brake
housing to the frame. Pay close attention to the order of
the housing, cable holder, nuts, bolts and washers.
●
Loosen the pedal chain tensioner and motor chain
tensioner and move both chains to the side.
●
With the chains clear, slide the rear wheel out of the
dropouts. The tire may need to be deflated to clear the
rear mud guard.
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Your rear wheel should now be free.
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Installation is the reverse of removal.