Custom Works 0985, Инструкция по эксплуатации

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2. Shocks
If tires are 50% of handling, shocks are probably the next 30%. Now that you’ve done all the work to make a great set
of tires, it’s the shock’s job to keep them on the track as much as possible. We’ve found the 9lb rear and 8lb front
springs to be the best combination for this car and honestly we don’t change them too often. Stiffer or softer springs can
be used to achieve different results. Too stiff or too soft can qu ickly move the car’s set up out of the ballpark, so test
accordingly and go back to the stock springs if you are struggling. Another important adjustment in the shocks is the
dampening which is controlled by the pistons and shock oil. The smaller the piston holes and the heavier the oil, the
greater the dampening. Dampening requirements will vary from track to track depending on how bumpy the track is and
the size and spacing of the bumps. If your car appears to be skidding as it enters a turn, you likely have too much
dampening and should change to a lighter oil or larger hole piston. If the tires appear to be oscillating and or the car is
bouncing, the problem is likely not enough dampening. Fix by using a smaller hole piston or heavier shock oil. Getting
the dampening right for a given track will require some trial and error but is critical in keeping the tires on the ground
allowing the car to accelerate and turn effectively. Try to use shock tuning to get the car through the bumps smoothly
before attempting to use it to tighten or loosen the car.
3. Battery Location
With the battery being one of the heaviest single items in the car, simply moving it to the correct location to match track
conditions can make a dramatic improvement to how the car drives. The higher grip the track surface, the more weight
will want to transfer to the right side of the car in a turn. Moving the battery to the left in these situations will help keep
the left side tires loaded through the corners.
There are three different mounting locations from left to right on the chassis and 2 options from front to rear for a total
of 6 possible battery locations. The inner most mounting holes should be used for low bite situations. Use the middle
mounting holes for medium bite tracks (this is the most common setting.) The mounting holes furthest to the left should
be used for extreme high bite situations. Use the forward most battery mount holes for more steering and the rear
battery mount holes for more forward drive and stability. **A low profile servo must be used in order for the battery to
be mounted in the inner position**
4. Body & Spoiler adjustment
The Intimidator 7 features three options for front and rear body mounting locations. With late model bodies, the location
of the body front-to-rear on the chassis is a key component to how the car handles on a given track. Start in the middle
location. Move the body to the forward location for more steering and move to the rear location for less steering and
more stability. Additionally the rear spoiler angle can be increased for more rear traction or decreased to allow the car to
turn better.
5. Camber links and Roll Centers
The hinge pin and camber link positions described in the kit instructions provide the standard roll center locations for this
car. Both front and rear camber links can be shortened by using optional holes included. Shortening the camber links
will cause the car to react quicker at the expense of stability. Front and rear can be adjusted independently to achieve
the proper chassis balance for a given track condition.
Lowering the inner camber link location will raise the roll center and cause the chassis to roll less in corners. Less roll is
generally better for conditions where traction is very high. Also be aware that lowering and/or shortening the camber
links will increase camber gain as the suspension compresses.
6. Ride height
The ride height is the distance between the track and the bottom of the chassis. For most tracks the normal ride height
should be 12mm in the rear and 11mm in the front. A little more ride height in the rear is usually good because the rear
of the car will squat under acceleration. Ride height is adjusted using the threaded collars on the springs. Ride height
can be lowered for extremely smooth high bite tracks, and can be raised if the chassis is bottoming out.
7. Cross-weight
Cross- weight which is sometimes referred to as “wedge” can help tighten or loosen the car. Since oval racing consists
only of left turns, there is less need to keep the weight of the car equally balanced between the left and right side tires.
Increasing the spring tension on the left rear and right front shocks will add weight to those corners and make the car
tighter. Doing the opposite will make it looser. Be careful not to go too far, excessive cross-weight can upset the ride