16
Trouble Shooting
System does not turn on
1. Check all fuses.
2. Check all connections.
3. Measure the +12 volt and remote turn on voltages at the amplifier terminals. If these are non existent or too low,
take voltage measurements at fuse holders, distribution blocks, the head unit’s +12 volt and remote leads to
localize the problem.
Noise problems
1. Check the speaker wiring
2. Speakers are damaged
No Signal at Channels
1. Set Balance and Fader from head unit on Zero-Position
2. Check wiring (Amplifier, Speakers)
3. Speakers are damaged
4. The SUB SONIC - Control is adjusted too high. Turn the Control back.
5. If you use the separate Subwoofer-Output of your head-unit, the level could be adjusted too low.
Hiss or white noise
1. Speakers are overload
2. High levels of white noise usually occurs when amplifier level controls are turned up too high.
3.
Another major problem that can cause excessive hiss, is a noisy head unit - unplug the amplifier input
RCA cables, and if the hiss level reduces, the source unit is at fault.
No Stereo-Sound or Low Output
1. Check speaker wiring (- and +)
Amplifier Protect-Mode (the LED lights up red)
1. Speaker cabels are shorted
2. Inadequate cooling - relocate or remount to provide better natural airflow. Driving high power levels into low impedances -back off on the
volume control, and/or make sure you are not loading the amplifier with less than the recommended loudspeaker impedance.
3. Make sure that the battery voltage, as measured at the amplifier’s +12 volt and ground terminals, is 11 volts or more.
Electrical Interferences
The inside of an automobile is a very hostile electrical environment. The multitude of electrical systems, such as the ignition system,
alternator, fuel pumps, air conditioners to mention just a few, create radiated electrical fields, as well as noise on the +12 volt supply and
ground. Remember to isolate the problem - first unplug amplifier input RCA cables, if the noise is still present, check the speaker leads,
if not, plug the RCA’s back, and investigate the source driving the amplifier, one component at a time.
A ticking or whine that changes with engine RPM:
1. This problem could be caused by radiation pickup of RCA cables too near to a fuel pump or a distributor, for instance, - relocate cables.
2. Check that the head unit ground is connected straight to the vehicle chassis, and does not use factory wiring for ground.
3. Try to supply the head unit with a clean +12 volt supply directly from the b, instead of using a supply from the in dash
Wiring/fusebox. This type of noise can be more difficult to pinpoint, but is usually caused by some kind of instability, causing oscillations
in the system.
A constant whine:
1. Check all connections, especially for good grounds.
2. Make sure that no speaker leads are shorting to exposed metal on the vehicle chassis.
3. RCA cables are notorious for their problematic nature, so check that these are good, in particular the shield connections.
Caution!
In your amplifier are protection circuits integrated. Short Circuit Protection engaged: The amplifier will turn off and try to
come back immediately. The amplifier will cycle like this indefinitely, with "blips" of sound each time. If this is the case,
check your speakers and wiring for low impedance and short circuits.Thermal Protection engaged: The amplifier will turn
off and several minutes later will come back on. In this case, ensure that there is nothing blocking the normal convective
airflow of the amplifier. If the display is still lighting up red, the amplifier is damaged.
