2) GROOVING
Grooving and Trenching operations are often carried out
to form joints such as slot dovetails or to make fittings
such as draw runner grooves.
SET THE CUTTER HEIGHT
:- Fit the appropriate cutter
into the router and set the plunge depth to give the
desired cut.
SET THE FENCE
:- The cut is made away from the edge
of the workpiece and therefore it will probably be nece-
sary to move the Fence back into Position 2. Measure
the distance between the edge of the workpiece and the
start of the groove and lock the fence in position with the
two knobs. The two wooden fence faces should be
closed up to form one continuous fence which will pro-
vide the best support.
SET THE CLAMPS
:- Set the Finger Pressure and Top
Clamps as for edging and profiling. Remove the Top
Clamps or Finger Pressure as necessary.
CUTTER GUARD
:- The cutter guard and dust extraction
chute are not used during this operation. Get into the
habit of testing all cutter or table adjustments on a waste
piece of wood first before commencing on the work-
piece.
3) USING THE MITRE GUIDE
For some operations it is not possible to use the fence
as a guide, for example Trenching at an angle or cutting
a Tenon where the width of the workpiece restricts good
support from the fence. To do these jobs a sliding mitre
guide is used which runs in the aluminium slot across
the front of the table.
REMOVE THE EDGING FENCE
:- Undo the two fixing
screws and either remove the fence or adjust it to a posi-
tion were it will not ineterfere with the cut.
FIT THE MITRE FENCE
:- The mitre guide is supplied
with a wooden face and a screw to fix it to the quadrant.
It should be fitted so that the mitre fence runs right up to
the cutter. Do not worry if the cutter actually cuts through
part of the mitre fence, it will actually help the cut by
reducing break-out on the back edge. You can easily
make a new fence for each job.
SET THE ANGLE
:- To change the angle of the mitre
fence, undo the knob and read off the engraved scale on
the casting. Tighten the knob at the required angle.
4) CUTTING CURVES
It is possible to put edge moulds on curved workpieces
using a router table and a cutter with a bearing guide.
Many cutters are now available with a bearing on top
which is used as a guide instead of the fence.
Set the cutter height in the normal manner. You cannot
take off a whole edge when using a bearing guided cut-
ter. Make sure there is enough of the workpiece edge
left uncut for the cutter bearing to run on.
If the whole edge is to be removed or you wish to cut out
a profile from a straight edge it is necessary to use a
template. Attach the workpiece to the underside of the
template so that once the cut is started the bearing will
run on the edge of the template whilst the cutter touch-
es only the workpiece.
Fig. 13
Fig. 14
