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PART I
Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to
a harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3) is called an
upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to
an easier, “slower” gear is called a downshift. It is
not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead,
find the “starting gear” for the conditions — a gear
which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy
enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling
— and experiment with upshifting and downshifting
to get a feel for the different gears. At first, practice
shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or
other traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence.
Learn to anticipate the need to shift, and shift to
a lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If you
have difficulties with shifting, the problem could be
mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for help.
c. What if it won’t shift gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails
to result in a smooth shift to the next gear chances
are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take
the bike to your dealer to have it adjusted.
4.E - PEDALS
1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front
wheel when you turn the handlebars to steer
while a pedal is in the forwardmost position.
This is common on small-framed bicycles, and is
avoided by keeping the inside pedal up and the
outside pedal down when making sharp turns.
This technique will also prevent the inside pedal
from striking the ground in a turn.
WARNING
TOE OVERLAP COULD CAUSE YOU TO LOSE
CONTROL AND FALL. ASK YOUR DEALER TO
HELP YOU DETERMINE IF THE COMBINATION
OF FRAME SIZE, CRANK ARM LENGTH, PEDAL
DESIGN AND SHOES YOU WILL USE RESULTS IN
PEDAL OVERLAP.
Whether you have overlap or not, you must keep
the inside pedal up and the outside pedal down
when making sharp turns.
2. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that
have sharp and potentially dangerous surfaces.
These surfaces are designed to add safety by
increasing grip between the rider’s shoe and
the pedal. If your bicycle has this type of high-
performance pedal, you must take extra care
to avoid serious injury from the pedals’ sharp
surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level,
you may prefer a less aggressive pedal design,
or chose to ride with shin pads. Your dealer can
show you a number of options and make suitable
recommendations.
3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet
correctly positioned and engaged with the
pedals. The toeclip positions the ball of the foot
over the pedal spindle, which gives maximum
pedaling power. The toe strap, when tightened,
keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation
cycle of the pedal. While toeclips and straps give
some benefit with any kind of shoe, they work
most effectively with cycling shoes designed
for use with toeclips. Your dealer can explain
how toeclips and straps work. Shoes with deep
treaded soles or welts which might allow the foot
to be trapped should not be used with toeclips
and straps.
WARNING
GETTING INTO AND OUT OF PEDALS WITH
TOECLIPS AND STRAPS REQUIRES SKILL
WHICH CAN ONLY BE ACQUIRED WITH
PRACTICE.
Until it becomes a reflex action, the technique
requires concentration which can distract your
attention and cause you to lose control and fall.
Practice the use of toeclips and straps where
there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic. Keep
the straps loose, and don’t tighten them until
your technique and confidence in getting in and
out of the pedals warrants it. Never ride in traffic
with your toe straps tight.
4. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in
pedals”) are another means to keep feet securely
in the correct position for maximum pedaling
efficiency. They have a plate, called a “cleat,” on
the sole of the shoe, which clicks into a mating
spring-loaded fixture on the pedal.
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