Q: Is it normal for the DI stage to not fill completely with water?
A: Yes, air gets trapped in the top of the canister and has no way to escape. This does not interfere with system
performance, but if desired open the canister slightly while the unit is running to allow the air to escape. Re-tighten
the canister when the water reaches the top.
Q: Is it normal for TDS to be higher when the system is first turned on?
A: Yes, this is called “TDS creep” and is normal on all RO systems. Allow the RO system to run for 10 minutes before testing TDS.
Q: Is it okay to leave water in the canisters between uses?
A: Yes, it is advised to keep them wet between uses, and store in a cool, dark location away from environmental extremes.
Exposure to sunlight or freezing can cause damage to the filters and canisters and should be avoided.
Q: How often should I use the flush kit?
A: We suggest flushing the membrane for a few minutes before and after use. There is an auto flush kit available for
a more automated solution. (SKU 200209 or 200208)
Q: My pressure gauge reads less than 50 psi, do I need a booster pump?
A: The membrane will not perform “optimally” below recommended pressure, but the reduced performance may not be
substantial enough to warrant a booster pump. As it approaches 35 psi the performance drop will become significant
and you will likely want to purchase a booster pump. (SKU 200216)
Q: What is a normal TDS reading?
A: TDS from most tap water will be in the 100-300 range but many sources can be well over 500. Normal product water
from RO membrane will be around 98% of tap water’s TDS under optimal conditions. Tap water with a TDS of 300 should
be around six coming out of the membrane. Product water emitted from the DI resin canister should be zero. Operate the
system for ten minutes prior to testing for TDS, readings will always be higher when the system is turned on initially.
Q: My DI resin seems to be depleting quickly, what’s wrong?
A: Usable lifespan of the DI resin cartridge will vary widely. Feeding the resin from the RO membrane with one TDS will have
approximately five times the usable life as feeding it with five TDS. Outside of that, carbon dioxide in your water supply or
a poorly performing RO membrane are the biggest causes of early DI exhaustion.
Q: I know I have good pressure, but all of the water is rushing down the drain and
I’m barely getting any product water; what’s going on?
A: It’s not uncommon to accidentally leave the flush valve in the open/flush position. For
normal water production, the valve should be the closed/perpendicular position, as
illustrated. Only during membrane flush should the valve be parallel with the line.
Q: My system doesn’t seem to be making a lot of water, what’s wrong?
A: Keep in mind that 75 GPD is approximately three gallons an hour. The flow will be slow and close to a constant
trickle. If it is slower than that, it’s almost always because the flush kit is open or the home’s water pressure is low
and there is insufficient pressure feeding the membrane.
Q: Can I reduce the amount of waste water my system produces?
A: The waste water is a critical component of a properly functioning RO system. The best way to reduce the volume of
waste water to product water ratio is to install a second membrane* in series which will effectively cut this ratio in half.
(*150 GPD Water Saver Upgrade Kit, SKU 200432 or 200 GPD Water Saver Upgrade Kit, SKU 211528)
Email:
Live Chat:
bulkreefsupply.com
Phone:
763-432-9691
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