Main Headset stereo speaker loom.
Plug-in Boom microphones. Parts 14, 13 & 12
(top to bottom)
Autocom helmet headsets are designed in two parts.
1
Main headset stereo speaker loom (Part 11. HS7-U2)
2
Choice of plug-in booms (Parts 12, 13, 14 & 15. Plug in boom microphones.
These headsets are not designed to work with ½ helmets (Chip style)
There are too many different helmets to be able to fully describe every possible installation and so these instructions
are designed as a basic guide. Please NOTE helmets with straps that go directly over your ears do not lend
themselves for a good headset installation, as the speakers have to sit on top or behind the straps, which can make
them uncomfortable or reduce sound & quality. Some helmets do not lend themselves to be installed as we have
shown and may require alternative methods, so please take some time to consider these basic principles and your
helmet design before installation. If you are unsure then please contact your supplier or Autocom. If your system is
not performing as we claim, it is almost certainly due to incorrect installation and/or use.
MAIN HEADSET SPEAKER LOOM (Part 11) (HS7-U2)
This is a twin speaker, stereo headset loom with a short down lead fitted with our standard 7-pin din plug, for
connecting to our systems. It has a small red socket for plugging in a choice of boom microphones. When this
product is plugged into the rider’s lead of a portable battery powered Pro-7 Sport (Part 4), Easi-7 Advance (Part 2) it
activates the battery power.
Before installing your headset you must first listen to it by plugging it into your powered system, then while holding
the speakers directly over your ears, either play some music or get someone to speak to you through the system.
Doing this is very important to help you to understand what to expect when the speakers are positioned correctly.
Moving the speaker’s just 5mm (1/4”) away from the ears, or out of alignment can easily halve the volume and/or
reduce the bass, especially when out on the bike when the powerful helmet noise can overwhelm the speaker sound.
Correct speaker positioning is essential and you will hear this during this test. Use earplugs during this test if you
intend to use them out on the bike, bearing in mind that over attenuating earplugs will impair speaker sound.
Please study the front cover and page 8 illustrations to get the general idea for installing part 11 into your helmet.
Also note the illustrations on page 6, which shows correct speaker and microphone positioning.
If required, tape or glue the rubber joint and/or boom to the outer shell or inner lining so that they are secure.
Position the speakers for maximum comfort and performance then tuck the speaker wires into or behind the lining.
The small red connector is for plugging in one of our boom microphones (NOT required for AVMS, Part 5). You may
find that you need to reposition the speakers, about once a year, due to slight movement that can happen when
putting the helmet on and off your head.
Top tips
You may need to fine-tune the speakers positioning several times before finding the optimum position for comfort
and performance. Start with the speaker’s low, so as to avoid pressure to the top of the ear and slowly move them up
until you find the optimum position. Try to position the speakers behind the helmet fabric if possible (on top of the
polystyrene). Pack the speakers out to your ears with foam if required. A slight angle out towards the top edge of the
speakers (as shown) can help with comfort and performance. Normally the speaker wire will come out towards the
back of the helmet.
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Part 43. Open face conversion kit (OFCK) MUST be fitted to
the microphone when used in any Open-face style
motorcycle helmets
The purpose of the kit is to act as a wind guard, preventing direct
windblast onto the microphone, which may cause false activation of the
VOX circuitry on your intercom. It may also be used in other helmets
where the microphones are exposed to windblast, such as some flip-
front helmets or the BMW System 4 helmets that can be used as either a
flip-front or open face helmet.
Ensure that the microphone fabric is clean and dry (free of lipstick etc),
and if not then have it serviced/replaced before fitting the Open Face
Conversion Kit.
Remove the backing from the self adhesive Velcro pad and apply it to
the BLACK side of the microphone fabric. Apply light pressure around
the outside edges to ensure that it adheres to the fabric. Avoid
squeezing the middle of the front and back covers, as this can cause the
microphone to move, which may cause damage to the fine microphone
wires.
Carefully cut a small notch out of the foam windsock so that it will fit
neatly over the microphone covering and rap neatly around the boom
rubber neck. Test that it will fit neatly over the cover as shown in the final
two illustrations, then remove it ready to apply the double-sided tape to
hold it in place.
Remove the backing from one side of the double-sided tape. Carefully
position the tape centrally on the booms’ rubber neck, just slightly
overlapping the beige fabric microphone front cover, then wrap it around
the back of the boom, applying firm pressure to ensure that it sticks in to
position around the rubber neck of the boom.
Carefully remove the backing from the double-sided tape, then carefully
slide the foam sock over the fabric covers leaving the beige cover part
exposed. Apply firm pressure to the foam windsock so as it adheres to
the double-sided tape.
If your foam windsock gets dirty replace it with one of the spare
windsocks supplied with this kit. Follow the same procedure after
removing any pieces of old tape.
NOTE: The foam windsock
is a hygiene replaceable
part, as such it is a
consumable part as defined
by our warranty agreement
with a 60 Day limited
warranty.
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