Aspen C 100, Руководство пользователя

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TROUBLE SHOOTING
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Windless. The windless is a Lewmar unit. Use is pretty obvious but few owners give it the respect it
deserves. These are very strong geared down motors. Never try to have two people work the
anchor at the same time. Keep your fingers and toes well clear of the chain and line, go slow, think.
Tap on the control is good, especially when the anchor is nearing the bow roller. Many owners do
not realize the motors design includes a cone clutch under the tension cap (wheel that moves) this
cap (or knob on some models) can be tightened or loosened, allowing the gear motor to slip a bit,
rather than pull with full force. This is especially important as the anchor jams into the bow roller in
the up position. It can, when locked tight, pull with 700 to 1,000 pounds of force. This can damage
the roller and fiberglass. Spray the motor and anchor chain off with fresh water after long trips. Be
sure to hook a bungee cord or safety line to the anchor when not in use. We had one owner who
had his anchor deploy at cruising speed (loose clutch).
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Hatches . Easy to use but many owners miss the “open just a crack” option. If you look at the area
where the handle latches, there are two tabs that protrude. If you open the hatch ¼ Inch and twist
the latch, it locks in that position. This is handy, allowing some ventilation while keeping 90% of the
water out except in big down pours. If you’re latched tight and still getting slight leaking at the
gasket, often you can tighten the Philips screw in the handle for extra tension. In some cases, we
have also fixed leaks by thinning the handles plastic slightly. If the hatch seems tight yet you’re still
getting a drip, check the seal around the outside next to the fiberglass. We have, at times, seen the
hatch plastic move just a bit with temperature, heating and breaking the seal.
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Windows and Screens . Issues here normally have to do with the screens being stiff to move/slide.
The core issue is they ride in a vinyl track that has a center open section in the top so they can slide
to this area and be lifted out for window cleaning. Owners will get off track a bit while sliding
through this area and if they push really hard they bend the plastic and derail the screen. The trick
is to go easy and push out a bit while sliding. This plastic can be removed but at times the screen
will vibrate annoyingly. The second window issue has to do with overloading the gutter tracks weep
holes with heavy seas or boat wash hose. This will cause some dripping inside, typically aft. There is
no great fix for this. If we increase the height of the inside track, then the screens can’t be removed
for cleaning.
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Engine Raw water Strainer . This devise protects the engine from sea weed and such getting into
the engines cooling system. It’s accessed from the Starboard aft engine hatch. Common problems
are; A. Owners pull the top off before they turn off the ball valve = wet bilge and lots of excitement.
They reinstall the strainer upside down (cone Up) letting debris flow past the mesh without
cleaning. The Strainer goes cone down, fitting over the cone at the bottom of the strainer, snug
with no slip from side to side. The last area to be careful is with the square O-ring gasket at the top.
It is greased with silicone to make assembly easy but it must be pressed in to the gutter all the way
around before you push the clear cap back in place and snug the wing nut back on. Note: the wing
nut does not have a gasket or O-ring, it fits tight against a machine surface. The VERY IMPORTANT
to RE
– Open the Ball Valve. Running the engine for even 2 minutes with the valve closed damages
the raw water pump (I did this one day).
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Garmin Electronics. For set-up instructions, see your Garmin Manual. If you electronics aren't
working, it could be a loose plug, the fuse or breaker is off, it's a faulty unit, or it may need an
update. You can find updates on the Garmin website, or call their service # for further assistance:
1-800-800-1020