4)
Place the front arch on the front plate of the bottom.
Then bolt the smoke guard to the arch. Do not
tighten the joints too firmly, otherwise the damage of the
refractory shapes may occur due to heat dilatation.
5)
Place the rear arch
on the rear plate of the bottom.
Place the small side arch between the front
and rear arch. Side arches should be placed with a hole
towards the front portal.
6)
7)
Place the central part of the arch with a hole
towards the chimney. Shape should be placed
on the top of the arch.
Place the last two shaped pieces
into the remaining space so that the locks match.
8)
9)
11)
Place the rear body to the
stand above the rear arch.
12)
10)
13)
14)
Place the front parts T9 and T10 of the body to
the stand above the front arch (push the
front edge of the body to the portal as
much as possible). Before you
connect the two parts, apply
adequate amount of silicone
caulk into the locks and on
the whole surface
between the parts. Make
sure the caulk don’t fill a hole for
the thermometer. Maintain a dilata-
tional interstice at least 3 mm between the
upper edge of the front arch and the front part of
the body. For this purpose place the supplied dilatation
pads under the side edges. If you use more than 2 pieces of
pads on top of each other, bind them together using silicone caulk. (A purpose of
the silicone caulk application between the two front parts is to connect them so
that they don’t spread and also as a protection against water if you don’t follow
the warranty conditions to place the oven under a roof.)
Cover the assembled arch with at least 1 layer of
aluminium foil. Place the isolation bio-mat on the
aluminium foil according to the cutting plan for the
bio-mat. Make sure the bio-mat doesn’t get distorted
during the application.
Place the central part
of the body on the stand
between individual parts of the
body so that the cutouts of individu-
al shaped pieces match and joints are
as narrow as possible. If it is necessary to align the parts, place the supplied
dilatation pads under the side edges, preferably at places marked by arrows
(9 points). Do not remove the pads. If you use more than 2 pieces of pads
on top of each other, bind them together using silicone caulk.
Apply silicone caulk between the body parts and along
oven circumference between the bottom edge of the
body and the stand - into the formed joint, the used
dilatation pads should also get fixed. Silicone the
chinks in the way the silicone caulk could be
removed in the case of necessity of disas-
sembling the oven (e.g. in the case of a
warranty claim).
A purpose of this silicone caulk application is
to prevent water to get into the oven in the case
you don’t follow the warranty conditions to place
the oven under a roof. If you follow the conditions, it’s
enough to fix the dilatation pads.
Cut out a hole for the chimney (through insulation and the aluminium foil). Place the rope
seal into the opening in the front body into the prepared groove in the inner front arch
to create two threads of rope seal. Insert carefully the chimney base until the cover
flange sits properly on the oven body. You can check with your hand from inside
of the chimney if the rope doesn’t get distorted while inserting the chimney
base (if the rope gets damaged, heat and smoke can get into the space
between the inner shapes and the body). Turn the dumper always lightly,
not more than 90 degrees. Otherwise the thread may turn and the sign
“open, closed” may not correspond with an actual position. Preferably don’t pull
out the chimney base out of the oven very often otherwise the rope seal may get
damaged. Close the oven with steel door. Last, place the thermometer into the opening
behind the chimney (for proper mounting it is necessary to pierce through the insulation).
