Assembly guide for Albany cottingham
RECOMMENDED TOOLS: HAMMER, POZIDRIVE SCREWDRIVER (BATTERY
OPERATED IS USEFUL), 10MM SOCKET OR SPANNER, STANLEY KNIFE, SAW,
PROTECTIVE GLOVES, EYE PROTECTION.
ESTIMATED ASSEMBLY TIME: TWO PEOPLE, 4 HOURS.
WE RECOMMEND PILOT DRILLING SCREW HOLES FIRST
PARTS LIST
G: 2 x felt rolls
(806 = 4.0m, 808 = 5.2m,
810 = 6.6m)
A: 1 x floor section
B: 1 x plain gable end
H: 1 x purlin
C: 2 x plain sides
I: 1 x handle set
D: 1 x door gable end
J: 1 x trim pack
E: 2 x roof sections
K: 2 x diamond finials
F: nail & screw pack
L: 16 x 390x200mm glass
1.
Lay the floor panels (A) in their desired position (remember to leave enough
space around the building for roof overhang and maintenance). It is essential the
floor is on a solid level base, otherwise the building will not fit together properly
and the door may not fit flush. Place the panels around the floor - it will help you
understand how they fit together.
2. Position the plain gable end (B) on the back edge of the floor (the lip on the
bottom overhangs the floor). While your assistant holds this, place a plain side
(C) on the floor to form a corner. Making sure the panels are sitting flat on the
floor and are butted together, screw through the plain gable end into the side from
the inside using two of the screws provided.
3. Select the second plain side (C) and place it on the floor opposite the other one.
Screw to the plain gable end as before with two screws, again making sure the
sections are flat on the floor.
4. Before fitting the door gable end (D),
5. Put the Purlin (H) into position, sitting on the horizontal framing on the two
gable ends.
Place the roof sections (E) on the building with the overhanging lip at the top
on both sections (at the apex). The purlin should stand upright between them.
Treat the underside of the floor if the building has been supplied untreated.
remove the key from the door. Unlock
the door and attach the handles (I) (so you can get out in a moment). Now screw
the door panel to the plain sides from the inside as before.
6.
Before the next step, check that the roof is square and sitting flat on the sides - if not it is
possible the floor is not level and will need packing in one corner.
See felt plan overleaf for reference for next part.
Strip 4 should now comfortably overlap strips 1 and 3 - ensure it
is folded over the apex and nail down both sides every 100-150mm as before.
over the loose ends of the felt and nail into the ends of the roof framing (you will also have
to nail the fascia boards into these, and the finials into the top two) and also a few nails into
the ends of the roof boards between the pieces of framing.
7. With the roof square, check that the sides and gable ends are sitting flat on the floor. Screw
the panels to the floor using at least two screws per panel, ensuring that you screw into a
floor joist (follow the lines of nails in the floor to locate the joists).
8. Screw the two roof sections into the purlin and then secure them down by nailing through
the roof panels into the framing on the sides and gable ends (use the 50mm nails for nailing
into the sides).
9. Felt the roof using the 13mm clout nails. Start by carefully removing the paper from the
two rolls of felt (G), then roll them out on a flat surface and cut them in half to leave four
equal strips.
Place the first strip on the roof
so it overhangs evenly at each end and approximately 50mm at the side, secure with three
evenly spaced nails along the upper edge (you will cover this over with strip 4) then fold the
50mm overhang over the side of the roof and nail every 100 - 150 mm along the edge of the
roof framing, working from the middle outwards. Repeat on the other side (strip 2). Place
strip 3 on the roof so it is overlapping strip 2 by approximately 150mm, secure at the top
with three nails and at the bottom every 100-150mm, nailing through strip 2 and working
from the middle outwards.
Then crease
10. Open the trim pack and remove the four fascia boards. Using the 40mm nails, nail them
to the ends of the roof framing so they meet in the middle and overhang at the bottom, then
trim the felt if necessary using a Stanley Knife. Nail on the diamond finials (K) at the apex
(also into the ends of the roof framing), covering where the fascia boards meet (it is best to
pre-sink the nails first on a flat surface so as not to split them).
11. Fix the corner strips (long narrow strips) to each outside corner using three nails per strip
(nail at an angle into the framing).
12. To glaze the doors, remove the small pins holding in the beading and take them out.
Insert the glass (L), securing it by putting back the beading and nailing it in place using the
panel pins. Do not push the beading too tight against the glass or it will crack. We advise you
wear gloves when handling glass.
If your building has been supplied untreated, it requires treating straight away. We recommend you re-
treat your building within 6 months and from then on annually. However, the hardwood doors at least
should be treated as soon as possible with two coats of high quality treatment, such as Sadolin (inside
& out). We do not recommend using standard shed & fence treatment on the doors & windows. These
instructions are meant as a guide only. We reserve the right to alter design without prior notice.
Thanks for buying an Albany shed. www.albanysheds.co.uk
For models 806, 808, 810
