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Oldtimer XXL-59 

 

 
 
Building instructions - Oldtimer XXL-59 

 

7

 

outboard wing panels at an angle of nine degrees from perpendicular. Check the fit repeatedly, to avoid sanding 
away too much material. 

  Glue the inboard and outboard panels together with 5-minute epoxy, using the jig which you previously employed 

when assembling the wing pylon. 

 

  Allow the joints to harden fully before very carefully sanding the joint areas smooth and flush. 

 

Remaining work 

  The wing pylon can now be glued to the top of the fuselage: the first 

step is to check that the tabs are a snug fit in the slots, and that the 
pylon rests squarely on the fuselage without wobbling. 

  Plug the wing panels into the pylon on both sides, and sight along the 

fuselage from the nose to check whether the wing and pylon are 
horizontal relative to the building board. You can easily check this by 
packing up both wings at the same point using CD cases or similar. 

  When you are satisfied, glue the pylon to the fuselage using 5-minute 

epoxy. Position it accurately as previously, then leave the glue to set 
hard. 

  Any gaps between the pylon and the top of the fuselage can be filled 

later with epoxy or white glue. 

 

  This completes the model’s bare airframe. Give the whole model a final rub-down with fine (240-grit) abrasive paper, 

and check that all surfaces are smooth and true. At this stage it is a good idea to examine the model carefully for 
inadequate glued joints, and excess blobs of glue which can be scraped away. 

 

  Now that you have built your own model, you can be justifiably proud of your modelling skills and workmanship. 

 

Covering 

  We recommend that you cover the airframe with a lightweight iron-on film such as ‘Ora-Light’, or the old classic 

tissue paper. Under no circumstances use iron-on fabric, as this material is too heavy and shrinks too strongly, i.e. it 
would cause serious warps in the delicate structure of the “Oldtimer XXL-59”. 

  When applying the covering material be sure to follow the instructions supplied by the manufacturer. 

 

Installing the RC system and power train 

  Use a little 5-minute epoxy to glue the plastic horns in the rudder and elevator, exactly in line with the snake sleeves 

where they exit the fuselage. Connect the pre-formed end of the steel pushrods to the horns. 

  Mount swivel pushrod connectors on the output arms of the two servos before screwing them to the servo plate. Set 

the servos to centre from the transmitter, hold the control surfaces at centre, then slip the pushrods through the 
connector barrels and tighten the clamping screws. 

  The electric motor is simply screwed to the inside of the firewall at the extreme nose of the fuselage. Mark the motor 

mounting holes on the firewall to suit the motor you intend to use. Ventilation holes are not necessary with such low 
power levels; they would only weaken the firewall unnecessarily. 

  The central hole for the motor shaft should be a few millimetres larger than the diameter of the shaft itself. 

  The speed controller can be attached to the bottom of the fuselage with a small patch of hook-and-loop tape; keep 

the connecting leads as short as possible. Don’t wrap the controller in foam, as this would prevent cooling air 
reaching it. 

  The flight battery is located directly below the wing, and is fitted and removed through the hatch on the underside of 

the fuselage. Secure it with hook-and-loop tape. 

 
Settings 

  Set the control surface travels as follows: 

 

 

Elevator: 10 mm up, 10 mm down 

 

Rudder: 15 mm left, 15 mm right 

 

  The model should balance at a point 72 mm aft of the wing root leading edge. Support the model on two fingertips on 

both sides of the wing pylon at this point: the fuselage nose should now be inclined slightly down. If necessary, 
correct the Centre of Gravity by re-positioning the flight battery or adding a small amount of lead ballast to nose or 
tail. 

 

  Carry out a range-check before the first flight - with and without the motor running. 

 

Safety notes, potential hazards 

  Model flying is a fascinating hobby. However, model aircraft have the potential to annoy and even injure people, so 

we strongly recommend that you observe a few basic rules in order to avoid these hazards. 

  In Germany and many other countries you are only permitted to fly model aircraft using a radio control system oper-

Содержание Oldtimer XXL-59

Страница 1: ...q dm Weight electric glider approx 420 g Wing loading 34 39 g sq dm RC functions Elevator Rudder Throttle The Oldtimer XXL 59 is based on the legendary Wakefield models widely flown in the years 1959 to 1960 Assembling the aircraft takes only a few hours but in any case you will find construction a pleasurable experience which reflects and repays your manual skills The fuselage is fitted with remo...

Страница 2: ...ts 100 180 and 240 Fine blade hacksaw for metal Modelling pins and weights Flat building board at least 120 x 30 cm Clear plastic film for covering the plan Paper masking tape Materials required to complete the model not included in the kit Wood glue PVA Thin thick cyano acrylate adhesive 5 minute epoxy Covering tissue or film Clear and coloured paint RC system Electric power system The fuselage R...

Страница 3: ...the support for the tailplane The tailplane mount consists of a balsa in fill piece which can be cut from a piece of scrap material from the machine cut sheets and the plywood part No 27 The rear edge of the plate should end flush with the rear edge of the projecting fuselage sides The tailskid is a sandwich consisting of a central plywood core S16 with balsa parts S17 S18 S19 and S20 glued on bot...

Страница 4: ... the underside Distribute the ribs along the spar so that they are evenly spaced Place the spar rib assembly in the tailplane frame and press the ribs into the notches in the leading edge from the top starting at one end Don t use force here otherwise you might break one or other of the ribs Once all the ribs are in their notches continue by inserting them in the notches in the trailing edge You m...

Страница 5: ...ly over a distance of 25 mm before gluing it in the pylon using 5 minute epoxy The assembly must be placed in the building jig to align the parts Now slip the plywood ribs T14 on the tube on both sides and glue them to the sides of the wing pylon Once again check that the rear holes for the incidence peg line up accurately Cut off the excess aluminium tube on both sides before sanding the surface ...

Страница 6: ...edral joint on the underside they are glued to the ribs K06 and K07 The aluminium tubes can now be cut to length and the surfaces sanded to provide a key for the adhesive before they are glued in the root ribs Slip the carbon fibre rod through the wing pylon and fit both inboard wing panels onto it Check that the root ribs rest snugly against the pylon If they do not file out the aluminium tube ho...

Страница 7: ...nd power train Use a little 5 minute epoxy to glue the plastic horns in the rudder and elevator exactly in line with the snake sleeves where they exit the fuselage Connect the pre formed end of the steel pushrods to the horns Mount swivel pushrod connectors on the output arms of the two servos before screwing them to the servo plate Set the servos to centre from the transmitter hold the control su...

Страница 8: ... model flying club as its members will be willing and able to answer all your queries and help with any problems you encounter Please note if damage is caused due to your failure to observe these instructions the guarantee is invalidated We accept no liability for consequential damage which results from such activity The building instructions which cover the construction and operation of the model...

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