A.J.S. 8, 14, Инструкция, Страница: 34 / 60

350 c.c. MODEL
STEERING HEAD ADJUSTMENT
The steering head bearing must be kept in close adjustment otherwise if movement
develops which is not promptly corrected damage can occur to the ball-races. To make
this adjustment the front wheel must be raised clear of the ground by using a box under
the crankcase or two boxes, one placed under each footrest.
To tighten the steering head bearing, first release the two alien screws which pass through
the fork crown (No. 39, illustration 12). These screws clamp the fork tube to the fork
crown.
Unscrew the dome nut at the end of the fork crown (No. 44, illustration 12) and tighten
the nut underneath it half-a- turn only. Place the fingers of the left hand on the handlebar
lug at the rear, and then lift up the front wheel assembly with the right hand on the
mudguard. Any movement will then be felt, and retighten the dome nut as necessary
until all movement is taken up, leaving the bearings free from friction and not over-
tightened.
It is vitally important to very firmly tighten the two alien screws that clamp the fork
tubes, otherwise "fretting" between the tube and the crown will take place.
FRONT FORKS
A breakdown of the front forks is shown in Illustration 12, and the only attention neces-
sary is to check the oil content say every 5,000-8,000 miles. The normal oil content with
the forks dry is 6½ fluid ozs. (184·6 c.c.) in each fork leg.
To top up or change the oil, first unscrew the two hexagonal bolts (No. 47, illustration 12)
from each fork tube. Use a suitable receptacle to trap the oil when draining, and then
remove the drain screw fitted to each fork slider (No. 56, illustration 12). The handlebars
should be turned to the left when draining the left side slider, conversely turned to the
right when draining the right side slider. When the oil has ceased to flow, take hold of
the hexagonal bolt and lift it up sharply to create a pumping action, with the object of
ejecting oil trapped in the damper tubes. After a period of 2-3 minutes a little more oil
will drain, then the drain screw can be replaced and 6 ozs. of SAE-20 oil should be poured
down the fork inner tube through the aperture exposed by the removal of the hexagonal
bolt. The reason why 6 ozs. is refilled, is due to the fact that there must be a little oil left
in the fork tube that cannot be extracted by draining. If, however, the forks are com-
pletely dismantled, then the contents should be 6½ fluid ozs. as previously stated. Six-
and-a-half fluid ozs. represents 184·6 c.c, and 6 fluid ozs. is 170·4 c.c.
TO DISMANTLE THE FRONT FORKS
First unscrew both slider extensions (No. 7, illustration 12), then raise the front wheel
clear of the ground as previously described.
Remove the following parts in the sequence described:
(1) The front brake cable from the forks.
(2) The front wheel.
(3) The front mudguard.
(4) The headlamp. (Before removing the headlamp, disconnect the speedometer
drive cable.)
It will be seen that the damper rods are attached to the hexagonal bolt, and these bolts
must be detached by releasing the locknut (No. 23). With the slider extension clear
of the slider, a sharp jerk downwards should enable the fork slider, together with the
damper rod and tube attached, to be withdrawn from the fork inner tube.
The fork oil seal (No. 8) is a close fit in the slider, and if difficulty exists in separating the
slider from the fork tubes, an application of gentle heat to the top part of the slider where
the seal is situated will cause it to expand and thus enable it to be withdrawn without
difficulty.
TO REMOVE THE FORK INNER TUBE
These are retained in the fork crown and clamped by the alien screws (No. 39) and with
these screws removed the fork tube can then be pulled clear of both the handlebar lug
and the fork crown. To dismantle the forks further, the assembly sequence is clearly
shown in illustration 12.
When replacing the oil seal, make sure that the metal face is pointing upwards as illustrated.
TO REMOVE THE FORK CROWN
Take off the dome nut and the locknut underneath it from the fork stem, then with a soft
mallet tap the handlebar lug clear of the stem and watch for the steering head balls
Which will probably drop out during this process. Twenty-eight balls are used in the
top frame race and 28 balls in the bottom race, which are retained by grease applied to
the bearing cups before assembly.
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