UnionSpecial 398 Classic Series Adjusting Instructions And Illustrated Parts List Download

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From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

Summary of Contents for 398 Classic Series

Page 1: ...398 24 398 25 398 26 398 27 398 28 398 29 Adjusting instructions and illustrated parts list ii U 398 Classic Series Safety stitch machines with Pushbutton stitch length change I Finest Quality Zua Equipment From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 2: ... STITCH MACHINES WITH PUSHBUTTON STITCH LENGTH CHANGE STYLES 398 21 398 24 398 27 398 22 398 25 398 28 398 23 398 26 398 29 First Edition Copyright 1982 By Union Special Corporation Rights Reserved in All Countries Printed in U S A July 1982 2 From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 3: ...ce between needles graduated in 1 64 increments thus 12 is 12 64 or 3 16 inch between needles The fraction 3 16 represents the width of overedge seam The total seam width is the sum of the two figures i e 3 16 3 16 or total seam width of 3 8 inch MACHINE STYLES 398 21 8 1 8 Ga For seaming light to medium weight fabrics Short narrow presser foot with matiching feeds and throat plate allow stitching...

Page 4: ...ulb on oil level indicator will register between red gauge lines To drain oil remove magnetic plug on back of machine near bottom edge of base Clean magnetic plug of any metallic material that may have accumulated in crankcase Oil must be changed periodically to minimize wear THREADING Be sure machine is threaded properly according to threading diagram Fig 1 for five thread machines or Fig 1A for ...

Page 5: ...Fig 1 5 TUBE UP From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 6: ...TURN TO RELEASE PRESSER ARM Fig 1A 6 From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 7: ...re the needles are all the way up in needle holder with the spot or scarf to the rear as shown D Fig 2 Machines shipped from the factory are sewn off using needles listed Machine Style Type and Size 398 21 398 22 398 23 398 24 398 25 398 26 398 29 120 GS 090 036 398 27 398 28 120 GAS 125 049 making adjustments involving the needles loopers or needle guards use new needles of correct type and size ...

Page 8: ...ser foot B to the left Loosen screws C and remove needles Insert new needles against stop in holder with scarf of needle positioned to the rear tighten screws C Swing presser foot B into position and lock presser foot release lever A NEEDLE ALIGNMENT Needle must center in needle slots of throat plate left to right as shown in Fig 4 If adjustment is required loosen screws A Fig 5 and needle lever b...

Page 9: ...e upper step is for these machines re quiring 17 32 inch 13 5mm needle height while the lower step is used for other machine styles requiring a 7 16 inch 11 1mm setting PRIOR TO MAKING THE FOLLOWING ADJUSTMENTS RE MOVE CLOTH PLATE FABRIC GUARD CHIP GUARD UPPER KNIFE LOWER KNIFE MAIN AND DIFFERENTIAL FEEDS CLOTH PLATE To remove cloth plate A Fig 8 loosen screw B and lift upward with stud C and scre...

Page 10: ... Re place rear needle guard B using screw C with front edge of guard centered in slot of knife holder A as shown Tighten screw C temporarily to hold guard in position yet allows it to be moved Rotate handwheel in operating direction so the lower overedge looper D moves from the extreme left po sition into the scarf of rear needle Move guard B forward until the front guarding surface contacts the n...

Page 11: ...he upper looper should be in position so the descending rear needle will pass to the right of the upper looper thread which extends from the eye of the looper to the previouslyformed stitch On machines using a spreader the spreader should now be in position so the descending needle will pass to the right of the lower looper thread extending from the notch of the spreader to the previously formed s...

Page 12: ...or LOWER POINT of spreader dimension F Fig 15 which is to the left of centerline of rear needle Rotate handwheel to position upper looper spreader to the right end of travel before tightening screw C Fig 13 securely Tighten screw A 6 If the needle s are beina deflected by the upper looper spreader clearance to the needle can be increased by reducing the length of looper spreader shank above holder...

Page 13: ...ETTING NEEDLE RANGE BY SIZE S SMALL M MEDIUM L LARGE 075 029 080 032 090 036 080 032 090 036 100 040 110 044 125 049 140 054 Loosen nut A Fig 18 Rotate handwheel until needles are at lowest position Align proper mark 5 M or L on stud B to timing mark on link C Torque nut A to 25 in lbs 29 cm kg Re check 401 looper setting then replace bottom cover and torque cover mounting screws to 19 21 in lbs 2...

Page 14: ...EEDLE GUARDS 401 LOOPER MUST NOT RUB GUARD If adjustment is required loosen screw D and locknut E With needle at lowest position set guard C so it s relatively close to the needle but NOT touching it Tighten screw CD Turn screw F in against guard Continue turning screw F to force guard slightly to the rear maintaining 004 inch 10mm clearance to needle Tighten locknut E MAIN AND DIFFERENTIAL FEEDS ...

Page 15: ...tip of its cutting edge 1 32 inch 8mm below cutting edge of lower knife by moving knife holder F left to right Upper knife must be held firmly against lower knife dur ing this adjustment Tighten upper knife holder screw G to lock upper knife in position Assemble knife clamp H and chip guard J in position using nut K Set chip guard J against top surface of upper knife and slightly back of its cut t...

Page 16: ...nd tighten collar screws A Hold lifter lever CD up and tighten clamp screw B Corpletely unlock presser foot release lever B Fig 23 Plunger C should clear presser arm D without binding On machines equipped with a tractor type presser foot the front edge of its 401 stitch needle slot must be 1 16 inch 1 6mm forward of front edge of the 401 stitch needle slot in throat plate Lift tractor presser foot...

Page 17: ...NG STITCH LENGTH The actual stitch length produced is usually measured as the number of stitches sewn per inch of seam This is determined by the distance feeds travel with their teeth protruding above the throat plate Class 398 machines are fitted with a feed system having two separate feed dogs MAIN rear and DIFFERENTIAL front The resulting stitch length is determined to a great extent by travel ...

Page 18: ... needle thread in the stitch may be desirable when sewing thick material With needles at lowest position loosen clamp screw and position strike off tip of thread pull off B 1 16 inch 1 6mm to 1 8 inch 3 2mm below eyelet C as shown in Fig 27 Fig 27 With needles at highest position set eyelet C so lower cam surface of thread pull off B just contacts the thread at Ref point D 401 STITCH LOWER LOOPER ...

Page 19: ...E loosen screw F and position blade up or down until its curved section Ref point G contacts the lower looper thread as soon as the needles start descending Position blade front to back so when the needles reach their lowest position the lower looper thread barely contacts the vertical surface Ref point H on the cast off blade then tighten screw F Fig 29 NEEDLES IN HIGHEST POSITION OVEREDGE UPPER ...

Page 20: ... off blade too far towards the rear Upper looper thread eyelet too far towards the front Upper looper thread tension too loose If the purl is being PULLED over the edge as shown in Fig 33 check the following thread control adjustments Upper looper thread tension too tight Upper looper thread eyelet too far to the rear Lower looper cast off blade too far forward Lower looper thread tension too loos...

Page 21: ...ge will effect the travel of both the main and diff erential feeds The location of the feed drive links D and E within each segment will effect the ___ feed travel individually The longest feed H travel is obtained with the link located at c G the highest position within the segment This E position of the link is fixed for the main feed and adjusted by a thumbscrew for the B D differential feed u ...

Page 22: ...ment slot Recheck set ting then torque clamp screw N to 38 40 in lbs 44 46 cm kg Replace bottom cover and torque its mounting screws to 19 21 in lbs 22 24 cm kg then fill machine with oil to proper level MAIN FEED DRIVE SEGMENT Set push button stitch regulator A to maximum stitch length by depressing and holding plunger H down in notch of stitch regulator eccentric and turning hand wheel in operat...

Page 23: ...emove cloth plate cast off support plate throat plate 401 looper take up take up spacer rear throat plate support and rear throat plate support bracket 2 Remove AIR KLIPP chain cutter assembly from the machine by removing screws A Fig 35 washer plate B and screw C With AIR KLIPP chain cutter assembly out of machine position movable knife CD to its extreme right Loosen screws E and press air tube F...

Page 24: ...Re adjust movable knife press ure as outlined in STEP 2 then tighten screws E Before tightening mounting screws be sure the right side of AIR KLIPP chain cut ter base is set flush against the main feed bar Tighten screws A and C NOTE Main stitch length determines movable knife travel and must be set before mak ing the following adjustment With main stitch length set and movable knife A Fig 36 posi...

Page 25: ...or assembly J during crank shaft removal NOTE To re assemble stitch regulator assembly J SEE STEP NO 12 2 Remove four screws L and counterweights M IMPORTANT Mark counterweights and crankshaft cheeks for correct positioning of counterweights during re assembly 3 Remove oil tube N and all connecting rod bearing caps at points P R S and T on crankshaft IMPORTANT During re assembly be sure trademarks...

Page 26: ...ing AF for wear To remove bearing AF use an arbor press Only after bearing AF is pressed off crank shaft can flange AG thrust washer AH and bearing CV be removed from crank shaft NOTE When pressing a new bearing onto crankshaft be sure it seats against thrust washer AH x AC AE AF 26 From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 27: ...ntil its slot slips into tension spring B posi tioned in stitch regulator mechanism Thread tool onto crankshaft and slide crankshaft through stitch regulator then unscrew and remove tool With stitch re gulator assembly positioned on crank shaft turn handwheel in operating di rection until first screw hole of stitch regulator assembly J aligns with tim ing groove on crankshaft for spot screw CE Fig...

Page 28: ...9z From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 29: ... Gasket 1 Porex Filter Sleeve 1 Pin 1 Oil Filter 1 Oil Pump Tube 1 Oil Tube Spacer 1 Screw for bottom cover 1 Screw for bottom cover 17 Bottom Cover Gasket 1 Oil Gauge Float 1 Screw for bottom cover 1 Screw for oil tube spring 1 Oil Gauge Indicator 1 Spring for oil tube 1 Felt Pad 1 Screw for cloth plate latch spring 2 Cloth Plate Latch Spring 1 Screw for cloth plate fabric guard 2 Screw for feed ...

Page 30: ...DC From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 31: ...llar 1 Spacer Collar 1 Crankshaft Ball Bearing Retaining Plate 1 Screw for ball bearing retaining plate and housing 3 Pulley 1 Screw for pulley 2 Pulley Cap 1 Screw for pulley cap 1 Crankshaft and Needle Driving Connecting Rod Assembly 1 Needle Driving Connecting Rod Assembly 1 Screw 1 Screw 2 Needle Bearing 0625 inch 1 588 mm diameter 28 Needle Bearing 0626 inch 1 590 mm diameter 28 Needle Bearin...

Page 32: ... 8 IL From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 33: ... 39536 BX Main Feed Bar Thrust Washer 1 22 39835 F Feed Leveling Pin 1 23 22894 3 Screw for feed leveling pin 1 24 660 466 E Ring for feed control shaft 1 25 40 144 Washer for feed control shaft 1 26 39836 AC Feed Control Shaft 1 27 39836 R Stitch Indicator Pointer 1 28 93 Screw 1 29 39836 AB Stitch Indicator Plate 1 30 22565 C Set Screw 1 31 92201 Pressure Plug Screw 1 32 39536 CA Pressure Plug 1...

Page 34: ...From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 35: ...in feed return spring 1 67 39836 M Differential Conrol Lever Actuator 1 68 22652 A 8 Screw 1 69 89 64 Plug 1 70 22517 Screw for stitch indicator plate 1 71 22789 C Stop Screw 1 72 39836 V Main Feed Drive Segment 1 73 80557 Washer 1 74 22852 A Screw 1 75 39836 AE Differential Feed Drive Segment 1 76 22852 A Screw 1 77 80557 Washer 1 78 39536 AY 247 Differential Feed Segment Sliding Block marked K 2...

Page 36: ...9E From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 37: ...4 22588 A Screw for needle thread cam pull off 25 39863 D 503 Needle Thread Cam Pull off 26 39863 J 401 Needle Thread Cam Pull off 27 39863 S Upper and Looper Looper Thread Take up Lever 28 22572 B Screw 29 22588 A Screw for thread take up 30 39852 S 5 Needle Head marked BS for No 5 1 8 gauge all Styles 1 39852 S 8 Needle Head marked BT for Nos 8 1 8 and 8 3 16 gauge all Styles 1 39852 S 12 Needle...

Page 38: ...v9I I I II 1 I II DL From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 39: ... B Lower Looper Bar Connecting Link 1 24 Presser Foot See pages 49 50 51 1 25 22571 D Plug Screw for foot lifter hole 1 26 22566 B Screw for foot lifter lever 1 27 39855 Foot Lifter Lever 1 28 39855 B Foot Lifter Intermediate Lever 1 29 41332 J Washer 1 30 39555 C Foot Lifter Lever Arm 1 31 627 Screw 1 32 12538 Locknut 2 33 22597 E Screw 2 34 8372 A Washer for connecting link 1 35 39855 A Foot Lif...

Page 40: ...10 39 24 25 21 T0HQTJI TO 1 21 in lbs 22 24 mIkg 4 S T5 W5 40 From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 41: ...543 M Clamp Collar 1 26 22562A Screw 1 27 39644 U Looper Drive Lever Auxiliary Connecting Rod 1 28 22729E Screw 2 29 22729D Screw 2 30 39644 R 2 Shim for ball joint guide fork 002 inch 051 mm thick As Reg 39644 R 5 Shim for ball joint guide fork 005 inch 127 mm thick As Req 31 39644 X Ball Joint Guide Fork 1 32 538 Screw for ball joint guide fork 2 33 660 206 0 Ring for looper drive lever shaft 2 ...

Page 42: ... 1 k I I 19 21 in Ib 20 58 57 53 42 48 From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 43: ...rust Washer 1 30 39543 W Upper Looper or Spreader Drive Lever 1 31 39843 3 Upper Looper or Spreader Drive Lever Connecting Rod 1 32 22729 D Screw 4 33 39594 N Oil Splasher 1 34 87 U Screw for oil splasher 1 35 22524 Screw for throat plate 1 36 Throat Plate See page 49 1 37 39550 E Knife Holder Spring 1 38 39850 C Lower Knife Holder 1 39 39550 AC Guide Plate 1 40 39849 Lower Knife 1 41 39550 AD Low...

Page 44: ...8 2 r 4 56 55 53 52 45 44 28 44 From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 45: ... Guard 1 31 357 Screw for fabric guard 1 32 39868 AA Thread Tube for 503 or 504 stitch looper thread 1 33 22569 0 Screw 2 34 29477 MA Upper Looper Thread Tube Assembly 1 35 39568 P Thread Tube 1 36 39568 J Thread Tube Tension Spring 1 37 22743 Screw for thread tube tension spring 1 38 22565 Screw for upper looper thread tube assembly 1 39 39863 P Overedge Needle Thread Pul 1 off Eyelet 1 40 39863 ...

Page 46: ...2 24 E 25 5 N C Ii 46 From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 47: ...c Oil Drain Plug Screw for oil sight gauge Oil Sight Gauge Oil Gauge Seal Ring Chip Guard Assembly Chip Guard Base Nut for hinge pin Retaining Ring Spring Hinge Pin Chip Guard Cover Screw for chip guard Screw for cast off support plate Cast off Support Plate Screw for main feed bar guide Washer Plate for main feed bar guide screw Main Feed Bar Guide left for machines without AIR KLIPP chain cutter...

Page 48: ... Y From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 49: ... DU423 16 398 24 11 39820 E 8 3 16 12 39805 E 8 3 16 16 13 39826 B 16 14 39828 E 8 3 16 15 39828 F 8 3 16 QF QG DR 8 3 16 DS 8 3 16 398 25 11 39820 G 12 3 16 12 39805 E 8 3 16 16 13 39826 B 16 14 39828 N 12 3 16 15 39828 P 12 3 16 QF QG DV 12 3 16 398 26 16 39820 A 5 1 8 17 39805 G 5 1 8 16 18 39626 D 16 19 39828 8 5 1 8 20 39828 H 5 1 8 QC BR EC 5 1 8 EB 5 1 8 398 27 16 39820 A 12 3 16 21 39805 A...

Page 50: ...01 C From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 51: ...U Spring for needle hole section 1 22 39630 L Locknut Screw 1 23 39820 A 8 3 16 Presser Foot for Style 398 22 1 39820 F 12 3 16 Presser Foot for Style 398 23 1 24 22799 AF Hinge Screw for presser foot bottom 1 25 39830 F Hinge Screw for needle hole section 1 26 39830 AB Spring for needle hole section 1 27 39830 Y Needle Hole Section marked BG for presser foot No 39820 A 8 3 16 39830 AE Needle Hole...

Page 52: ...11 19 24 52 From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 53: ... 39820 A 5 1 8 Needle Hole Section marked BC for presser foot No 39820 A 12 3 16 Presser Foot Shank marked N for presser foot No 39820 A 5 1 8 Presser Foot Shank marked M for presser foot No 39820 A 12 3 16 Clamp Screw Set Screw for presser foot bottom hinge pin Presser Foot Hold Down Spring Shoulder Screw for presser foot hold down spring Presser Foot for Style 398 24 Presser Foot for Style 398 2...

Page 54: ...179 LE From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 55: ... 20 22894 W Set Screw 1 21 99674 B Stud 1 22 22894 W Set Screw 1 23 22797 Screw 1 24 376 A Screw 1 25 99663 H Base 1 26 15430 L Oil Wick 1 27 671 B li Air Tube 30 inches 762 0 mm long 1 28 671 F i Male Fitting 2 29 671 F 2 Elbow Fitting 1 30 22729 B Screw 2 31 671 1 Air Valve 1 32 21371 MZ Connection 1 33 1453 A Pitman Rod I 34 22651 CB 4 Set Screw 2 35 671 3 Air Valve Actuator Block 1 36 671 2 Ai...

Page 56: ...ci From the library of Superior Sewing Machine Supply LLC ...

Page 57: ... 60 mm long 1 24 660 264 5 Hook for treadle chain 2 25 WR65 Wrench 1 16 inch 1 59 mm hexagonal 1 26 WR8O Wrench 050 inch 1 27 mm hexagonal 1 27 WR69 Wrench 9 64 inch 3 58 mm hexagonal 1 28 21207 B Screwdriver 1 8 inch 3 18 mm diameter 1 29 660 272 Thread Tweezers 1 30 21227 DP Stitch Regulator Assembly Tool 1 31 21225 3 32 Looper Gauge 3 32 inch 2 38 mm 1 32 21388 BC Wrench 1 33 21375 BA Belt Guar...

Page 58: ...05 47 22585 A 43 45 22585 T 33 22506 T 29 22507 F 41 22587 11 31 22588 A 37 43 51 53 22588 B 51 22597 6 39 22651 CB 4 55 22651 CD 4 57 22651 CD S 57 22651 FM 4 33 22652 A 6 35 41 22652 A S 35 22652 8 10 37 22653 B 12 43 22653 0 4 29 22657 0 12 29 22704 45 22716 55 22716 A 55 22729 B 43 55 22729 0 39 41 43 22729 F 39 41 22729 M 41 22729 P 45 22733 35 53 22738 41 22738 B 37 22743 45 22747 B 31 22760...

Page 59: ...834 F 33 39835 E 47 39835 F 33 39835 0 47 39836 K 35 39836 M 35 39836 N 33 39836 6 33 39836 U 35 39836 V 35 39836 W 33 39836 X 35 39836 V 29 39836 7 35 39836 All 33 39836 AC 33 39836 AD 33 39836 AC 35 39838 33 39843 B 43 39843 6 43 39843 1 37 39843 6 43 39843 F 55 39843 0 47 39843 H 43 39843 3 43 39844 39 39844 A 41 39844 B 39 39844 C 41 39844 D 41 39844 F 29 39849 43 39849 A 33 39849 C 29 39849 0...

Page 60: ...nd COLUMBIA machines are also products of Union Special Corporation thus offering the industry the most complete line of the Finest Quality sewing machines Norcross GA Chicago IL Dallas TX Commerce CA New York NY Philadelphia PA Woburn MA Opa Locka FL Montreal Quebec Toronto Ontario Catano Puerto Rico Brussels Belgium Leicester England Paris France Stuttgart W Germany Hong Kong Other Representativ...

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