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Summary of Contents for 385.12514

Page 1: ...OWNER S MANUAL SEA RS SEWING MACHINE MODEL 3 4 ...

Page 2: ...ense for conditions beyond our control Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store Please remember if you have q estions about your machine or need parts and service always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire Kenmore Sewing Machine Record in space provided below t he model number and serial number of this appliance...

Page 3: ...r dropped into water Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center lorexamination repair electrical or mechanical adiustment 4 Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller tree from accumulation of lint dust and loose cloth 5 Never drop or insert any object into any opening 6 Do not use outdoo...

Page 4: ...14 Stitch Selector 15 Stitch Length Control 16 Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance 16 Starting To Sew 17 SECTION 3 LEARN THE STITCHES Straight Stitches 18 22 Straight Stitch 18 Use the Seam Guides 18 Turn a Square Corner 18 Topstitching 19 Left Needle Position 19 Sew in a Zipper 20 21 Use the Darning Plate 22 Darning 22 Zigzag Stitches 23 30 Basic Zigzag 23 Satin Stitch 24 o Applique 25 Bar Tacking 2...

Page 5: ...ther option buy a Carrying Case then your Kenmore goes anywhere can be stored anywhere f Locate and Identify the Parts Take up Lever Bobbin Winding Tension Disc Top Thread Tension Control Face Cover Plate Thread Cutter Needle Plate Upper Thread Guide Shutt e Cover Extension Table Accessory storage box Thread Spool Pins Bobbin Winding Spindle Stitch Length Control Stitch Selector ...

Page 6: ... Switch Plug Connector Presser Foot 4 i d le Foot Control Clamp Screw Carrying Handle Presser Foot Lever Free Arm Nomenclature Plate Identify the Accessories Needle set_ __Large screw driver Darning plate __ Lint brush j a o le tooi Zipper loot Straight _ stitch foot Small screw driver ...

Page 7: ...o the outlet Power swilch 4 Push the power switch to turn on the power and sewing light SAFETY FEATURE Your machine will not operate unless the power switch is turned on II you are interrupted or stop sewing turn off the power switch to prevent injury to children Foot Control Use f Fool control The foot control regulates the speed at which you sew To increase speed gently press down with the bail ...

Page 8: ...rage lever The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presser toot You can raise it about 1 4 higher than the normat up position tor easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser toot Thread Cutter Thread cutter You don t need a pair ot scissors to cut the thread after you finish sewing Just use the handy thread cutter Pull the threads to lengthen several...

Page 9: ...esser toot for the stitch you wish to sew To change the various presser foot raise the presser bar to its highest position by lifting the presser foot lever Loosen the presser foot thumb screw choose the proper foot insert from the bottom Tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make certain the loot is secure Choose the Needle and Thread To Change the Needle i t Fla l s_e l away II _rom ...

Page 10: ...Chiffon Silks Fine Lace Organza Crepe Talfeta Voile Organdy Medium weight Cotton Cotton Blend Percale Gingham Shantung Pique Seersucker Satin Knit Suitings Linen Woot Crepe Leather Medium Heavy weight Corduroy Denim Wool Sailcloth Wool Flannel Gabardine Velvet Leather Heavy weight Coating Upholstery Cotton Duck Heavy Twills Canvas Decorative top stitching on all types of fabric Stretch Fabric Poly...

Page 11: ..._case Pul bobbin case straight out ol shuttle SECTION 2 PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING o Wind the Bobbin Release clutch by turning the clutch knob inside the hand wheel toward you to stop the needle trom moving while you wind the bobbin k NOTE fJ The bobbin winder stopper can be adjusted lor the amount of thread needed on the bobbin example 1 2 full or full etc To make the adjustment use your larg...

Page 12: ...p off end of thread Wind thread until winder stops Push bobbin winding spindle to the left and clip thread Remove bobbin Turn clutch knob away trom you while holding hand wheel tor normal sewing operation Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case Place bobbin in bobbin case making sure thread leeds clockwise and is coming from bobbin as shown f Pull thread through slot of case as shown f Pull thread ...

Page 13: ...lever Place spool on spool pin as shown with thread coming from the back ot the spool _ Draw thread into thread guide using both hands _ While holding thread near spool draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder Firmly draw thread up and through take up lever from right to left 4 4 Q Draw thread down and slip it into left side needle bar thread guide _ Thread ne...

Page 14: ...th threads under and to the back of the presser toot leaving 4 to 6 inches of thread clear If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above then check 1 Is needle threaded lrom front to back 2 Is thread tangled around needle 3 Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle 4 Is thread lrom shuttle tangled 5 Is bobbin property installed in the bobbin case 6 ls the machine thr...

Page 15: ...p thread SECTION 2 PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Choose the Correct Tension The best tension will depend on the stiffness and thickness of the fabric the number of fabric layers the type el stitch The lop lhread is leo oose The top lhread appearson the underside of Ihe tabr_c The top thread is Ioo t_ghl The bobbin thread appears on the upper surface ot the Iabric Tension is too loose Tension is t...

Page 16: ... each z_g zag will pull together on the top side ot fabrics f k_ j Top side of Fabric 1 Bottom side of Fabric Too Loose The top thread will loop through bottom side ol fabric and will be pulled almost together 14 Just Right r Top side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabnc Just Right Minimize the amount ol top thread visible on the bottom side o_ abnc without causing excessive puckering or causing the bob...

Page 17: ... you select but also regulates the stitch width lot regular zigzag The different types o stitches are designated by coJor Straight zigzag and utility stitches are red Stretch stitches are brown Buttonhole settings are b_ue NOTE To avoid needle or fabric damage be sure your needle is up and out of labric when adjusting this control 15 ...

Page 18: ...nhole range on the stitch length control Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance f iz LJ Stitch Length 1 o t _ 4 t Stitch Lenglh Control To select Stretch Stitches set this control at Y position For stretch stitch sewing the Stitch Length Control should be in the detent position between S and L Y position for most materials Depending upon the type of fabric used you may need to adjust this control to mat...

Page 19: ...hine Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam 3 Test the machine stitch _n a scrap _f the labric y_u p_an t_ use_ The fabric sh_uId be d_uble thickness_ Adjust the machine __rthe Iength _t stitch and tensi_n suitable to the labdc 4 Fabric should be placed under the presser loot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge ot the ma...

Page 20: ...reeds naturally Do not force the tabric or try to pu 7 At the end ot the seam you may want to reverse to lock the stitch 8 Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric 9 Cut the threads o Use the Seam Guides 1 Cornering Guide The seam guides on the needle plate are there to help you measure seam width The lines are 1 8 apart with the 5 8 and 7 8 lines marked D Turn a Square Corner gu o To turn a s...

Page 21: ...blouses with one or two rows ot topstitching around the outer edges of cuffs lapels or cotlars Heres How 1 Lower the presser fool 2 Keep the edge of the fabric next to the right edge of the presser foot 3 Eveniy guide the fabric along this edge to produce an even row of topstitching 3 8 from the edge Left Needle Position Use Left Needle Position for more control while topstitching or edge stitchin...

Page 22: ...6 control 2 Zipper oot To Sew 1 Fold back the felt seam allowance as shown 2 Turn under the right seam a lowance to form a 1t8 told 3 Place the zipper teeth next to the 118 told and pin in place Wrong s_de ot tabnc To sew the left side of the zipper set the zipper toot on the left side of the needle 5 Lower the zipper foot on the right side at the bottom of the zipper so that the needle pierces th...

Page 23: ...an also be used to make cording for slipcovers etc Cover a cord with a str_p of bias tabnc and sew as shown NOTE Use Low Bar Sewing Machine ZIPPER FOOT 6757 tot invisible z_pper and cording which can be obtained at any Sears retail store 11 To sew the right side of the zipper set the zipper toot on the right side of the needle 12 Stitch across and below the bottom ot the zipper 13 Turn the corner ...

Page 24: ...on Sewing P 26_ 22 Set the Machine Stitch Stitch seIector I Top thread tension Stitch Jeng h control I to 4 Contr01 any number No presser oo1 Darmng p ate Heres How 2 3 4 5 6 NOTE Put the darning plate on the needle plate see p 22 Remove presser loot and stretch fabric between embroidery hoops with hole centered Drawthe bobbin thread up through the labric by holding the top thread and taking one s...

Page 25: ...tility stitch tor sewing buttons buttonholes hemmin 9 overcasting mending and darning It can also be used to decorate with trims appliques and cut out work or as a decorative stitch Here s How There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch Consult the specific variations tot detailed directlons Satin Stitch p 2 4 Applique Work p 25 Bar Tacking p 25 Button Sewing p 26 Overcasting p 2_ 7 Three step zigz...

Page 26: ...ten used decorative stitch but it can also be used to overcast a raw edge for example blankets finens tablecloths and napkins The Satin stitch is especially attractive in applique CIose to 0 1 2 Slilch lenglh 3 Zigzag width E Heres How Once your machine is set up to stitch you may want to experiment on a scrap of the fabric you are planning to use Too tight a satin stitch may pucker some light wei...

Page 27: ...lique making sure the needle lalls along the outer edge ot the applique When sewing corners lower the needle down into the labric Raise the presser loot and pivot the labric to the right or left S Bar Tacking Set the Machine Slitch Stitch seteclo_ Top thread tension Conl_ol i to 4 Salm stitch toot J This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reintorce poinls of strain such ...

Page 28: ... slot of the toot and place the left hole ot the button just below the needle point 3 Lower the toot and turn the stitch selector to zigzag until the needle polnt comes just above the right hole of the button 4 Sew about five stitches and raise needle 5 Set the stitch at ci again and sew a few stitches to lock thread f J To strengthen the shank cut the threads leaving a 20 cm 8 tail Bring the need...

Page 29: ... t Io 4 con rol t tO2 Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses This zigzag variation is very usalul in garment construction and in finisfing raw edges ol any sewing project J He p ul Hints Start overcasting about 118 inside the raw corner oi your seam If you start right at the edge the labric awifl bunch up and the stitches will become tangled 27 ...

Page 30: ...airing straight tears finishing seams 28 Seam F n shing Place the tabric under the presser foot so that the edge will be slightly inside the r_ght hand side of the presser toot Guide the work so the right hand stitches all at the edge of the tabric Position the tear under the needle so that the stitching will catch both sides o Lace Work Set the Machine Slitch Stitch selector Top Ihread ter s_on c...

Page 31: ...d for knit and stretch labncs 1 Finish the raw edge of your hem any way you desired See Overcasting p 27_ 2 Measure turn up your hem and pin NOTE For light weight fabrics you may need a double told 3 Fold the material wrong side out on the edge to be stitched as shown leaving 1 4 ot the finished hem edge showing 4 Place garment under presser toot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sew...

Page 32: ...loped tucks on blouses and lingerie Here s How 1 For best effect set the stitch length as you desire you may need to tighten the top thread tension slightly allow the needle to just clear thelolded edge ot the tabdc when it zigzags 2 If you sew rows ol shell stitches space the rows 1 2 apart You can sew shell stitch on knits or soft silky wovens in any direction Box Stitching Set the Machine Stitc...

Page 33: ...ments that wiif receive a great deal of strain ie children s clothes The stretch stitch does not actually stretch as it is being sewn but is stitched in a torward and back motion sometimes called a reverse action stitch so that it wilt give when the fabric stretches instead o breaking This stitch can also be used tor topstitching on all fabrics Rick Rack Stretch f Set the Machine Stitch Stitch sel...

Page 34: ...tch Stitching Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length conbo1 1 to 4 control brown slrelch stiEch position t__J Zigzag oct The Stitch and its Uses This stitch can be used for sewing a seam with an overcast finish The seam is formed and finished in one operation It can be used when you are making swimwear ski pants and other garments that require stretch I Here s How ...

Page 35: ...c under the presser toot so that the stitches are made over the edge Or place your labric to alfow a 5 8 seam then trim seam allowance after NOTE When t_slng stretch knit tabric use a blue stretch fabric needle which effectively prevents skipped stitches Etastic Stretch Stitch Set the Machine Stitch Stilch selector Top thread tension Slitch lenglh control 1 to 4 control brown s retch stilch positi...

Page 36: ...you plan to use to find the more suitable stitch length 34 1 a Caretully mark the buttonhole length on your garment b Change to the sliding buttonhole foot c Insert the garment under the toot with the buttonhole marking run ning toward you d F no i coa o stitches stitches tot light for heavy iabr_c _ labrlcs f J L C __ B 2 a Move the slider A toward you so that the top mark C on the slider meets t...

Page 37: ... you reach the back marking of the buttonhole c Stop sewing at the right stitch k 6 a Set the stitch selector at W b Sew 4 to 6 stitches c Stop sewing at the left stitch J 7 Remove the fabric and cut the hole open with the buttonhole opener NOTE When sewing at the edge of fabric set sliding buttonhole loot as illustrated and sew in reverse J _f _ LJ L_J ILJ _t J 35 ...

Page 38: ...at a medium speed Rethread machine Loosen upper thread tension Choose correct size needle tor thread and fabric insert new needle Replace shuttle or polish off bum completely Replace needle plate or polish off burrs completely Breaking Bobbin Thread improper bobbin case threading Check bobbin case threading Lint in bobbin case or shuttle Clean bobbin case and shuttle Darning plate in place Remove ...

Page 39: ... two different sizes or kinds of thread Bent or blunt needle Loose presser loot Fabric very sheer or very soft Choose Correct size needle for thread and labfic Rethread machine Tighten upper thread tension Do not pull fabric guide it gently Reset presser toot Rewind bobbin Replace needle plate or polish off burrs completely Do not pull fabric guide it gently Choose correct size needle for thread a...

Page 40: ...reas can attract dust and lint Your machine can become sluggish or knock loudly if a thread is caught Check and clean those areas about every three months under normal use If you sew frequently clean more often Clean the Feed Dogs f Follow these directions 2 Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter clockwise to remove it 3 Put the new bulb in by pushing it up and turning it clockwise 1 Unplug th...

Page 41: ... out 3 Clean the shuttle race with a lint brush 4 Put a drop ol oil on the center pin of the shuttle and shuttle race Do not over oil Shuttle driver Lever_ Shuttle Race L fOil here Lever Pomled Shultle Shuttle Race Cover To Replace Shuttle Assembly 1 Position shuttle race as illustrated so that shuttle driver is forming half moon on the left side ot the machine 2 Hold shuttle by center pin and pos...

Page 42: ...otherwise it may stain fabric Kenmore sewing machine oil is available at your nearest Sears retail store NOTE Unplug the machine before oiling Remove needle and put needle bar in tutl down position Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the Arm Cover Plate Face cover pta e Atm cover p_ate Oil the Underside f Shuttle cover Open face cover plate and or remove arm cover plate by loosening top scre...

Page 43: ... 801506008 648801108 650802014 7355O3018 647807008 593401008 _941800000 647112009 Shuttle Bobbin case 10 bobbins Bobbin winder rubber ring No 11 Stretch fabric needles BLU No 11 Single needles ORG No 14 Single needles RED No 16 Single needles PUR No 18 Single needles GRN Needle clamp with screw Sliding buttonhole foot Straight stitch toot Standard zigzag foot Satin stitch toot Zipper foot Conceale...

Page 44: ...he sewing machine including electronic components motor wiring switch and i speed control _ FULL 90 DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS For 90 days trom the date ot purchase Sears wifl tree of charge reptace any parts and provide mechanical service necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine except for normal maintenance _ WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING THE SE...

Page 45: ...e shown on the nomenclature plate on the back ot your sewing machine See page 4 for location WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION PART NUMBER PART DESCRIPTION MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked locally your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling SEARS ROEBUCK AND CO Dt817 WA HOFFMAN ...

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