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2. Body installation 

Mounting the tank 

 

Slip your stock cushions over the rubber studs I 
mounted under your tank 

 

Connect fuel lines and in-line filters 

 

Slide the tank on as you would the stock tank. Rear 
tank hole fits on frame stud 

 

Connect line to carbs 

 

Tank is installs before the tail 

 

Mounting the tail 

 

Install tail piece and guide on the ½” hole (rear tank 
mount post). Trial fit tail. If binding with tank occurs 
simply grind away a bit of hole, probably on the 
leading edge of the hole. Shim to get a flush fit 
between tank and tail 

 

This is tricky – follow closely 

A.

 

With tank and tail on the bike, center the tail. 
You’ll notice a small drill point about ½ way 
back on top of the tail. Lift the tail off to see 
where you are going to drill your mounting 
hole.  

B.

 

Reinstall tail. Now drill a 1/16” hole through 
the drill point and into frame.  

C.

 

Pop off the tail and look at your drill mark. Is 
there enough frame material around the drill 
mark for a 25/64” hole? If not make a new 
hole with the 1/16” drill.  

D.

 

Pop off the tail again. Ultimately you will 
need 25/64” hole. Don’t start drilling with this 
big drill. Start the hole with ever increasing 
drill sizes up to 25/64.”  

E.

 

Warning

 

Just below the surface you are drilling 
through is another frame piece BUT this 
piece is at an angle. If you are not careful, 
your drill is going to be deflected. You want a 
straight hole for the threaded insert I have 
provided you.

 

F.

 

You now have a 25/64” hole in your frame 
and the tail is on the bench over there.  
 

 

Threaded insert. Find the nifty little assembly which 
is a thread-zert with a 5/16” nut and ¼-20 bolt 
holding it all together. Shove the thread-zert into 
the frame hole and make sure its flush on the 
frame. Hold the 5/16” nut with ½” wrench. Start 
tightening the ¼-20 bolt with a 7/16” wrench. What 
you are doing is squeezing the thread-zert so it fills 
the hole and swells out underneath. This will lock 
the threads into the frame. Tighten until the 
resistance increases. Overtighten beyond this point 
and you’ll distort the threads and you’ll have to 
chase them with a ¼-20 bit. This your anchor the 
rear of the tail. Save my little tool pieces if the zert 
loosens up-you can just crank on it again.  
 

Warning 

I suspect the two tail mounting places may not be 
strong enough to carry a passenger—so don’t 
unless you mount the tail more solidly. 

 

 

When you mount the tail to the frame use red 
Loctite on front and rear bolts. Use Loctite on the 
6mm bolt which holds the rear of the tank and front 
of the tail in place. Make sure you secure the two 
body parts with a washer wider that the hole. I 
wouldn’t over tighten either of these two bolts or 
you may crack the fiberglass. 

 

These two mounts will hold your tail in place. The 
fender is shaped to sit on the frame for weight 
support. 

 

The seat cushion mounts with Velcro (supplied) 

 

3. Vinyl graphic installation 

You have only two approaches for applying graphics. 
They are very difficult to apply. The problem is lining up 
long skinny graphics over tank and tail. Do not try it 
yourself-it’s just extremely difficult to do it without 
misaligning one of the four parts. If you get 3 of the 4 
right-what do you do? You’d have to call for another of 
the botched vinyl parts. 

Option one

-pay me to do it. 

Option two

-pay your sign company to do it. You can 

bitch at me/them if they screw up.  
 

Summary of Contents for X650

Page 1: ...1 ...

Page 2: ...r wheels are apart paint the inside of the rims and hubs for an extra touch of color Front rotor have Kevin Rickbeil drill and swirl polish the rotor face Buy shocks with different colored bodies and springs all chrome stock shocks are boring see suppliers list Part Suppliers 2 into 2 chrome upswept Ascot megaphone exhaust Michael Morse 650 Central Vintage Brake 15069 Lupine Lane Sonora CA 95370 2...

Page 3: ...cials The threads on these studs are extra long to accommodate the sissy bar and shocks Since the sissy bar is history you have to shorten the stud Get a 10mm x 1 25 thread die and cut new threads back to the unthreaded base Cut off unneeded part of stud Dab a little clear paint over end to retard rust Step three this is elective I m going to assume you ll want to use the 650 Central Ascot exhaust...

Page 4: ...hread zert with a 5 16 nut and 20 bolt holding it all together Shove the thread zert into the frame hole and make sure its flush on the frame Hold the 5 16 nut with wrench Start tightening the 20 bolt with a 7 16 wrench What you are doing is squeezing the thread zert so it fills the hole and swells out underneath This will lock the threads into the frame Tighten until the resistance increases Over...

Page 5: ...eat flush with top of sliders The beveled surface of brace contacted fender and didn t allow it to seat If you discover the same you will have to grind on the beveled brace surface I wish I knew why this was the case with a product that has been around for more than 20 years It may be just a sometimes thing We ll see I just started selling theses things Frame beauty plates The frame section of a Y...

Page 6: ...designed the Storm for all those Specials still out there Sure Storm fits the Standards too A 16 rear wheel won t be the best look for the Storm but if you are on a budget don t worry just build An 18 or 19 would be more preferable If you are starting with a Standard you have no rear wheel problems Here are your options to get a taller rear wheel on a Special The Specials came with three types of ...

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