Waterco Turbotemp 125 Installation And User Manual Download Page 27

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Turbotemp 125 Pool and Spa Heater Installation and User’s Guide

WHAT A DISINFECTANT DOES

Two pool guests you do not want are algae and bacteria. To get rid of them and make pool
water sanitary for swimming - as well as to improve the water’s taste, odor and clarity - some
sort of disinfectant must be used.

Chlorine and bromine are universally approved by health authorities and are accepted
disinfecting agents for bacteria control.

WHAT IS A DISINFECTANT RESIDUAL?

When you add chlorine or bromine to the pool water, a portion of the disinfectant will be
consumed in the process of destroying bacteria, algae and other oxidizable materials. The
disinfectant remaining is called chlorine residual or bromine residual. You can determine the
disinfectant residual of your pool water with a reliable test kit, available from your local pool
supply store.

You must maintain a disinfectant residual level adequate enough to assure a continuous kill of
bacteria or virus introduced into pool water by swimmers, through the air, from dust, rain or
other sources.

It is wise to test pool water regularly. Never allow chlorine residual to drop below 0.6 ppm (parts
per million). The minimum level for effective chlorine or bromine residual is 1.4 ppm.

- The term pH refers to the acid/alkaline balance of water expressed on a numerical scale

from 0 to 14. A test kit for measuring pH balance of your pool water is available from your local
pool supply store; see Table 10.

Muriatic Acid has a pH of about 0. Pure water is 7 (neutral). Weak Lye solution have a pH of
13-14.

RULE:

7.4 to 7.6 is a desirable pH range. It is essential to maintain correct pH, see Table 10.

If pH becomes too high (over alkaline), it has these effects:

1.  Greatly lowers the ability of chlorine to destroy bacteria and algae.
2.  Water becomes cloudy.
3.  There is more danger of scale formation on the plaster or in the heat exchanger tubing.
4.  Filter elements may become blocked.

If pH is too low (over acid) the following conditions may occur:

1.  Excessive eye burn or skin irritation.
2.  Etching of the plaster.
3.  Corrosion of metal fixtures in the filtration and recirculation system, which may create brown,

blue, green, or sometimes almost black stains on the plaster.

4. Corrosion of copper tubes in the heater, which may cause leaks.
5. If you have a sand and gravel filter, the alum used as a filter aid may dissolve and pass

through the filter.

CAUTION:

Do not test for pH when the chlorine residual is 3.0 ppm or higher, or bromine

residual is 6.0 ppm or higher. See your local pool supply store for help in properly balancing
your water chemistry.

RULE:

Chemicals that are acid lower pH. Chemicals that are alkaline raise pH.

*Start-up TDS includes source water TDS and any other inorganic salt added at start-up.

NOTE (**):

Failure to adhere to the listed water chemistry parameters may result in premature

failure of the heat exchanger and will

void the warranty.

Table 10: WATER CHEMISTRY PARAMETERS

ALKALINITY High or Low:

“Total alkalinity” is a measurement of the total amount of alkaline chemicals in the water, and
control pH to a great degree. (It is not the same as pH which refers merely to the relative
alkalinity/acidity balance.) Your pool water’s total alkalinity should be 100 - 140 ppm to permit
easier pH control.

A total alkalinity test is simple to perform with a reliable test kit. You will need to test about
once a week and make proper adjustments until alkalinity is in the proper range. Then, test only
once every month or so to be sure it is being maintained. See your local pool dealer for help in
properly balancing the water chemistry.

Disinfectant levels

Minimum

Ideal

Maximum

Free Chlorine, ppm

1.0

2.0 - 4.0

5.0**

Combined Chlorine, ppm

None

0.2

Bromine, ppm