9
"FIREPLA
"FIREPLA
"FIREPLA
"FIREPLA
"FIREPLACE" INST
CE" INST
CE" INST
CE" INST
CE" INSTALLA
ALLA
ALLA
ALLA
ALLATION (CONT'D)
TION (CONT'D)
TION (CONT'D)
TION (CONT'D)
TION (CONT'D)
FIREPLA
FIREPLA
FIREPLA
FIREPLA
FIREPLACE INST
CE INST
CE INST
CE INST
CE INSTALLA
ALLA
ALLA
ALLA
ALLATION
TION
TION
TION
TION
Connection of the stovepipe directly into the
existing masonry chimney over the fireplace open-
ing is a more desirable method. This installation
performs better, yielding more heat and better
draft; it is also easy to clean and inspect for
creosote. Before beginning this type of installa-
tion plan carefully; a high degree of skill is re-
quired to insure safety.
An entry port for the stovepipe must be cut
through the chimney with minimum damage to
the fireclay liner. Some involved measurements
may be required to locate the flue liner exactly.
Before cutting, take time to mark the size and
position of the entry port. Position the entry port
so that at least 8 inches of the flue liner remains
below the port.
Keep in mind that wood mantels and combustible
trim around the fireplace must have adequate
clearances from the heater and stovepipe or
must be protected in an approved manner. Also,
be sure to leave at least an 18 inch clearance
between the top of the stovepipe and the com-
bustible ceiling or other combustibles. Placing
the center of the entry port 2 feet below the ceiling
will insure proper clearance for 6-inch, 8-inch,
and 10-inch stovepipes. Next, install a fireclay (at
least 5/8 inch thick) or metal thimble, being sure
that the thimble is flush with the inner flue lining,
secure the thimble in place with refractory mortar.
The thimble should be surrounded on all sides
with 8 inches of brickwork (solid masonry units) or
24 inches of stone.
Install the stovepipe as far as possible into the
thimble, but not past the inside of the flue lining.
There should be a small airspace (approximately
1/2 inch) between the stovepipe and thimble,
allowing for expansion of the stovepipe. Seal this
airspace with high-temperature caulking or ce-
ramic wool. Finally, be sure to wire the damper
closed and apply the same sealant you used at
the stovepipe and thimble junction.
Do not use the Type B installation (not illustrated
in this manual), that is, venting up through the
fireplace opening, regardless of whether the fire-
place opening is closed.
Masonry chimneys have several positive at-
tributes: If properly built, they are quite durable,
and most homeowners consider them more at-
tractive perhaps than an unenclosed factory built
chimney. And, if the chimney is located within the
confines of the house (that is, not attached to an
exterior wall), its mass alone will store heat longer
and continue to release the heat long after the fire
has died. Masonry chimneys have many disad-
vantages though. Masonry chimneys constructed
on an exterior wall are exposed to cold outdoor
temperatures, promoting greater heat loss, higher
accumulations of creosote, and reduced draft
which leads to poorer heater or furnace perfor-
mance.
Fig. 7
HORIZONTAL PIPE (24 GA)
WITH 1/4" RISE PER FT.
5/8" FIRECLAY
FLUE LINER
STOVE PIPE CONNECTOR
SEALED AT THIMBLE
STOVE PIPE ELBOW
CLEARANCE REDUCER
(FOR MANTEL)
DAMPER
FLOOR
PROTECTOR
STOVE PIPE (THREE
SHEETMETAL SCREWS
AT EA. JOINT OF PIPE)
DAMPER THROAT
CLOSED AND SEALED