10
Centering your Servos
Whenever your radio system has been removed for service or cleaning,
the servos must be re-centered prior to installing the radio system in the
model. If the radio system is installed in the truck, disconnect the servo
horns from the servos.
Connect the steering servo to channel 1 on your receiver and the throttle
servo to channel 2. The white wire on each servo cable is positioned
towards the center. Connect the red and black cable from the battery
holder to the “batt” terminal on the receiver. The red wire is positive and
the black wire is negative.
Place fresh AA batteries in the transmitter and turn the power switch on.
Turn the Steering Trim knob to the center position. Now install fresh AA
batteries into the battery holder and turn the power switch to the “on”
position. The servos will automatically jump to their center positions.
Turn off the battery holder switch followed by the transmitter. The servos
are now ready to be installed. Be careful not to move the servo shaft
when reinstalling the servo horns.
After-Run Procedure
You must perform after-run maintenance on your engine whenever
the model will be stored for longer than a few hours. Taking the time to
prepare your engine for storage will reward you with longer engine life,
easier starting, and better performance.
When a nitro engine is shut off, some excess unburned fuel remains in
the engine. The methanol in model engine fuel is hydroscopic, which
means it easily attracts and absorbs moisture. This moisture can cause
rust and corrosion on the steel engine parts (crankshaft, bearings, wrist
pin, and starter shaft) if the fuel is not removed from the engine. There
are after-run oil products available from your hobby dealer or you can
use WD-40
™
, a common household lubricant. To ensure your engine is
protected from internal corrosion, use the following procedure:
1.
Shut off the engine by pinching the fuel line closed. This allows most
of the excess fuel to be consumed by the engine. Be sure the throttle
is in the idle position. You may have to pinch the fuel line closed for
several seconds before the engine stops.
2.
Completely empty the fuel tank. Use your fuel-dispensing bottle to
suck out the old fuel. Do not mix the old fuel with your fresh fuel
supply. If you leave fuel in the tank, transporting or handling your
model may cause fuel to run into the engine.
3.
With the fuel tank empty and the throttle at the idle position, try to
start the engine. The engine will most likely start and run for a few
seconds as it uses up any fuel remaining in the engine and fuel lines.
4.
Once the engine stops, clean the outside of the engine with
compressed air or spray motor cleaner. Once the engine is clean and
dry, remove the glow plug power wire, glow plug, and air filter.
5.
Open the throttle fully and spray a one-second burst of WD-40 into
the carburetor and into the glow plug hole (
Caution!
Wear safety
glasses to prevent spray from getting into your eyes). If you are using
after-run oil, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
6.
Place a rag or paper towel over the engine to catch any WD-40 or
after-run oil that may come out of the carburetor or glow plug hole.
7.
Connect the EZ-Start
®
controller to the model and spin the engine for
10 seconds.
8.
Remove the rag or paper towel and repeat steps 5–7 two more times.
9.
Clean and re-oil the air filter so it will be ready for use next time.
10.
Replace the glow plug, reconnect the glow plug power wire, and
reinstall the air filter.
Maintenance
Nitro Sport requires timely maintenance in order to stay in top running
condition.
Neglecting the maintenance could allow dirt, deposits, and
moisture to build up inside the engine, leading to internal engine
failure.
The following procedures should be taken very seriously.
after each hour of running:
• Clean and re-oil the air filter. The instructions for this procedure are on
page 6.
We cannot stress enough the value of cleaning your air filter
at the scheduled intervals.
The cleanliness and condition of your air
filter directly influences the running life span of your engine.
Do not
skip air filter maintenance!
• Clean the outside of the engine of accumulated dirt, oil, and grime.
Accumulated grime will decrease the engine’s ability to cool itself.
• Tighten the wheel nuts (especially on the left side).
after each running session:
• Perform after-run maintenance on the engine. This clears the
engine of destructive moisture and other corrosive deposits.
This
is extremely important for the life of the engine.
• Inspect the gears for wear, broken teeth, or debris lodged between
the teeth.
• Inspect the vehicle for obvious damage or wear. Look for:
1.
Loose or missing screws
2.
Cracked, bent, or damaged parts
3.
Cut or loose wiring
4.
Cut or kinked fuel lines
5.
Signs of fuel leakage
Other periodic maintenance:
•
Connecting rod:
The connecting rod should be replaced when the
piston and sleeve are replaced. Also replace the piston wrist pin and
G-clip whenever the connecting rod is replaced. As with other internal
engine components, connecting rod life depends on engine usage
and the quality and frequency of engine maintenance. Inspect the
connecting rod after three gallons of fuel have been used.
•
Slipper clutch pegs
(friction material): The slipper clutch pegs will wear
over time and require replacement. The life of the pegs depends on
how the slipper clutch was adjusted and how the Nitro Sport was used.
If the slipper will not tighten or you are seeing signs of wear on the
face of the gear, then the pegs should be replaced.
•
Piston/sleeve:
The life of the piston and sleeve will vary greatly with
how the engine was used and maintained. The piston and sleeve
should be replaced when they no longer seal effectively (loss of
compression). Symptoms include the engine being difficult to start
when warm, stalling when warm, and stalling when throttle is suddenly
closed to idle. Replace the wrist pin and G-clip whenever the piston
and sleeve are replaced.
Changing the Clutch Bell and Spur Gears
Remove the rubber exhaust pipe and
the tuned pipe. Remove the electric
starter drive. Loosen the four 3x8mm
cap-head screws, that hold the slotted
adjusting plates to the engine mount.
Remove the large E-clip on the clutch
shaft and the clutch bell gear. Remove
the ball bearings and install them in
the new clutch bell gear. Reinstall the
clutch bell gear and E-clip.
Note
: Smaller clutch bell gears use
smaller ball bearings. Refer to your
parts list for the correct bearings.
Reinstall the spur gear on the top shaft
and secure it with the 4mm locknut.
Remove the 4mm nylon locknut and
the spring from the slipper clutch. Try
to remove the slipper clutch as one
assembly by holding the pressure
plates together with your thumb and
index finger.
Slide a strip of thin note paper
between the spur gear and the clutch
bell gear. Push the clutch bell gear
against the spur gear and tighten
the 3x8mm adjusting plate screws.
Remove the paper; the gear mesh
should be correctly adjusted.