124
Sharpening
Japanese Chisels
These differ in shape from the Western style chisels. The
rough shape from the forging is retained without machining,
the sides are usually not parallel and the blades are shorter.
This means that you cannot use the alignment shoulder in
the jig for an exact 90° alignment. The clamp is designed
so tools with a tapered shank can also be firmly mounted
(page 121).
Be cautious when sharpening Japanese chisels! Compared to longer Western style chisels
there is a limited amount of available steel, so you should set carefully to minimize the re-
moval of expensive steel. The back has a hollow, which moves closer to the edge at each
sharpening. After some sharpenings you might need to flatten the back, so the hollow does
not reach the edge. Then use the side of the stone.
Draw a pencil line on the
stone using the Universal
Support as guide.
Align the tool to the
line when mounting.
Ensure that the hollow does not
reach to the edge. If necessary,
flatten the back on the side of
the grindstone.
Important
Bring the tool to the stone carefully when flattening
the back. The edge must not touch the stone before the heel.
Move the tool sideways to use the whole width of the stone.
Do not move more than approx. 2 mm (
5/64
") outside the stone.
Press with your fingers close to the edge for best control.
A higher grinding pressure means faster steel removal. Lighten
the pressure at the end of the sharpening and you will obtain
a finer surface.
Sharpen until a burr develops
on the entire bevel. You can
feel it with your finger.
