Top Flite Gold Edition Nobler Manual Download Page 4

NOTES FROM THE DESIGNER

When I became interested in modeling as a kid the
Top Flite Nobler was a very popular control line
model. I built and flew several of them and still have
many fond memories from that time, almost fifty
years ago.

When the Top Flite R/C Nobler was introduced I just
had to have one. That was thirty years ago, and it
was a great flying model in its day. Now I design
models for Top Flite and jumped at the chance to
redesign the model for the anniversary re-release of
this classic model. Isn’t this hobby great!

While the original R/C Nobler was a great flying
model, it did have a number of problems. It was
difficult to build, had terrible die-cutting and required
a lot of sanding and shaping. It also had some
structural problems. We have tried hard to correct
these problems. You will note that the aft section of
the model and the tail feathers have been changed to
improve the flying characteristics.

The original R/C Nobler had a D-tube wing
construction, but the spar was just a 1/16” balsa web
- with nothing else, no spars. It was not uncommon
for the wing to fail during snap rolls. The new version
of the model also has a D-tube wing construction, but
it has top and bottom basswood spars with a die-cut
3/32” I-beam type web. The original model had balsa
block wing tips that needed to be carved and
sanded. The new version of the model has wing tips
built from die-cut parts, much like the control line
model did.

The fuselage of the original R/C Nobler was built
from die-cut sides with many balsa blocks added.
These blocks required considerable carving, shaping
and sanding. The turtle deck had an annoying habit
of cracking, causing the tail feathers to loosen. The

new version of the model has no blocks at all. The
model has die-cut sides and formers that are then
sheeted. The turtle deck and tail section have been
redesigned and strengthened.

The tail feathers on the original R/C Nobler were
made from 1/4” sheet balsa and were a bit heavy. On
hard landings the weight of the tail feathers would
cause the turtle deck to crack at various glue joints.
The tail feathers on the new version are built-up for
lightness and strength from sticks that are then
sheeted with 1/16” balsa.

I did not enjoy building the original version of the
model. The die-cutting was bad, parts fit was poor
and it required a lot of carving and sanding. I hope
you find the new version fun to build. The die-cutting
is great and the parts fit is right on, thanks to modern
computer CAD design systems. And it takes only
about 15 minutes to sand the entire model! If you are
a quick builder it would be possible to build the model
and have it ready to cover in a long weekend.

The original R/C Nobler had a fixed wing that could
not be removed from the fuselage, and could be a bit
difficult to transport and store. The new version of the
model has a removable wing held in place with three
nylon bolts.

While the original model required only four servos to
operate ailerons, rudder, throttle and elevators with
coupled flaps, the new version requires six servos.
You can also add a seventh servo for retractable
landing gear. That’s right, you can now build the
model with retractable main landing gear.

Our prototype models, with seven full size servos and
retractable landing gear weighed 5 lbs 8 oz, almost
exactly the same weight of the original model. The
structure of the new version is much lighter due to the
elimination of all the balsa blocks and also the built up
tail feathers. At the same time, it is also much stronger.

For Retractable Landing Gear you will need
these items (not included):
Great Planes Retracts (GPMQ2905)
Retract servo (FUTM0670 or HCAM0160)
(2) 2-1/4” [57mm] wheels (GPMQ4222)
(2) Nylon Clevis (GPMQ3800)
(2) 2-56 x 12” [305mm] pushrod, threaded one
end (GPMQ3750)
(2) Screw-Lock connectors (GPMQ3870)
(8) #4 x 3/8” [9.5mm] flat head sheet metal screws

FLAPS

Your R/C Nobler is designed to incorporate flaps.
You must build these flaps, but you do not have to
make them operational. If you do not want
operational flaps simply glue them into place. As
the wing is removable, the flaps cannot be
mechanically coupled to the elevator as the
original R/C Nobler could.

For normal (independent) flap operation, only one
servo is required. This allows the flaps to be used
as normal flaps as well as for elevator to flap
mixing with a computer radio system.

Slight trim changes are needed when flaps are
extended. The trim corrections are discussed later
in the control surface throws section and you will
find more information on the flaps in the 

Flying

section and the radio installation section.

For Flaps, you will need the following
additional item:

one standard servo.

- 4 -

Summary of Contents for Gold Edition Nobler

Page 1: ...d product By the act of using the user assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product the buyer...

Page 2: ...t a toy but a sophisticated working model that functions very much like an actual airplane Because of its realistic performance if you do not assemble and operate your R C Nobler correctly you could p...

Page 3: ...lready an experienced R C pilot you must fly the model only with the help of a competent experienced R C pilot Remember Take your time and follow instructions to end up with a well built model that is...

Page 4: ...lding the original version of the model The die cutting was bad parts fit was poor and it required a lot of carving and sanding I hope you find the new version fun to build The die cutting is great an...

Page 5: ...ottle Flaps Electronic Elevator to Flap coupling or 7 servos gives above plus retractable landing gear Note Recommend 6 standard and 1 retract servo 1 Y Connector for aileron if only one aileron chann...

Page 6: ...6 DIE CUT PATTERNS IMPORTANT Do not remove the wing ribs or other wing parts from the die cut sheets until instructed to do so...

Page 7: ...7 DIE CUT PATTERNS...

Page 8: ...6176 11 Contour Multi Sander GPMR6190 12 roll of Adhesive backed 80 grit sandpaper GPMR6180 150 grit sandpaper GPMR6183 180 grit sandpaper GPMR6184 220 grit sandpaper GPMR6185 Assortment pack of 5 1 2...

Page 9: ...te the parts into groups such as stab fin wing and fuse Store smaller parts in zipper top food storage bags BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES Use the Hot Tip that follows to cut the 1 8 x 1 4 x 24 3 2 x 6 4 x 6...

Page 10: ...aking sanding difficult B Use masking tape to tightly tape the trued edges of the sheets together A Use a straightedge to true one edge of two balsa sheets HOW TO MAKE THE STAB SKINS Top Flite selects...

Page 11: ...m the building board and trim the sheeting along the LE and both tips Save the leftover sheeting for use in a later step BUILD THE ELEVATORS 1 Pin the die cut 1 8 balsa control horn base into position...

Page 12: ...on the ends of the elevator joiner wire Position the elevator joiner wire on the top of the stab as shown in the photo Align the elevators with the stab and mark the leading edge of the elevators whe...

Page 13: ...udder over and use a sanding block to sand the un sheeted side flat Use the remainder of the sheeting to cut a piece for the other side of the rudder Use medium CA or aliphatic resin to glue this shee...

Page 14: ...es of the elevators to a V as shown on the cross section of the plan Use the centerline on the elevator leading edges as a guide Test fit the elevators to the stab with the joiner wire and the hinges...

Page 15: ...en the glue has dried remove the side from the building board Label this side L 8 Glue the belly pan doubler to the belly pan side Align the doubler with the wing saddle and with the ends The belly pa...

Page 16: ...fuselage sides on the inside and outside This allows you to judge the angle at which the holes should be drilled 6 Locate the die cut 3 32 2 4mm balsa left and right fuselage top deck parts Use your...

Page 17: ...d with plan protector or wax paper Place the fuselage assembly upside down on the building board With the assembly properly aligned glue F2 to the top deck and fuselage sides with thin CA Be sure that...

Page 18: ...d down blocks and glue them together Using 30 minute epoxy glue this block to the rear of F3 between the fuselage sides Make sure the block fits into the cutout in the fuselage doublers 22 Locate two...

Page 19: ...to it As an alternative you can use an L bend with one of the supplied nylon Faslink keepers For making Z bends we highly recommend the Precision Z bend Pliers from Great Planes GPMR8025 This tool mak...

Page 20: ...r the throttle pushrod at the location you marked Using a piece of leftover plastic pushrod tube install the throttle pushrod tube in the hole you just drilled in F1 and into the hole in F2 Trim the t...

Page 21: ...holes with a drop of thin CA and remount the servo when the CA has cured 17 Locate the die cut 1 8 3 2mm ply rudder pushrod brace Carefully drill a 3 16 4 8mm hole in one end of this brace at the pin...

Page 22: ...centered between the sides 7 There are three other formers that are supplied and are shown in the next photo These are F2TX and two F3TX These formers are shown on the side view of the fuselage plan T...

Page 23: ...16 1 6mm oversize 16 Carefully hold the sheeting in position along the top edge of the fuselage and then roll it along the former until it meets the sheeting on the other side Note how much must be sa...

Page 24: ...cut 1 16 1 6mm balsa sheet Be very careful not to let any of the jig tabs split off of the jig If any do glue them back on Remove all of the ply wing parts from their die cut sheets 2 Prepare four le...

Page 25: ...e that the ply doublers on W2 W3 and W4 are on the correct side Also be sure that the notch for the TE web jig is facing down when each rib is twisted into position 11 Position a 1 8 x 1 4 x 24 3 2 x...

Page 26: ...m spar and the spar web While doing so press the rib and spar web firmly onto the bottom spar until the CA cures Make sure the rib is firmly seated against the front face of the spar web and also that...

Page 27: ...tom of the tapered leading edge even with the bottom of the ribs following the contour of the ribs Do not change the shape of the ribs Also sand the trailing edge TE spar jig and bottom spar even with...

Page 28: ...m when it is retracted Less clearance will cause the wheel to jam while more clearance will make the retract servo hard to fit On our prototype model W1R is 1 9 16 39 7mm from W1 This is also a good t...

Page 29: ...e hatch to the rails with six 2 x 3 8 9 5mm screws Remove the hatch and harden the holes with a couple of drops of thin CA After the CA has cured mount the hatch to the rails 42 Cut fit and glue cap s...

Page 30: ...h of tip ribs T1 thru T6 Place the tip core over the plan and mark the location of all the tip ribs Use the following photo for the next four steps 2 Use thin CA to glue the parts together Work on one...

Page 31: ...mount Using the plan as a reference position the control horn mount on the aileron and mark its location Cut along the lines you marked and remove the balsa to inset the mount Glue the mount into the...

Page 32: ...er as you did the elevators and rudder 1 Use a straightedge to mark the centerline of the ailerons and flaps as well as the TE of the wing with a ballpoint pen Mark the location of the hinge slots on...

Page 33: ...epoxy joint between the ply spar joiners and the basswood spars the epoxy joint between the balsa web and the ply joiners and the center sheeting that will be installed in the following steps 5 Use a...

Page 34: ...he following steps you will mount the flap servo It is important that the servo linkage be mounted in the exact position shown on the plan as there is very little clearance with the servos and pushrod...

Page 35: ...You may need to shorten the flap joiner arm 13 Install 12 305mm servo wire extensions on each aileron servo Secure the connection with tape or heat shrink tubing Route the servo wires for each servo...

Page 36: ...BP to F3 6 Fit the left and right belly pan sides that you made earlier into place Make any adjustments needed for a good fit Make sure the belly pan sides are centered in the wing saddle opening Tack...

Page 37: ...cks stop the wing hold down blocks from being deformed when the wing bolts are tightened 18 Install the control linkage on the flap servo Plug the flap and elevator servos into the receiver turn the t...

Page 38: ...ading edge of the vertical fin Fit the fin to the fuselage and check its alignment It should be perpendicular to the stab and aligned with the centerline of the fuselage and stab 5 Use 6 minute epoxy...

Page 39: ...the hole with some thin CA and tap the hole again when the CA has cured 5 Cut one of the 1 8 x 1 1 4 6 4 x 32mm dowels in half Round one end of each dowel Insert the rounded end of each dowel in the...

Page 40: ...gear wire a little at a time marking and cutting the sheeting to fit the wire R10 Install the wheel on the axle included with the retract units according to the directions for the retract units It is...

Page 41: ...lage without being loose If it is loose remove the cowl and trim the edges where the left and right sides join together Trial fit the cowl in place again and continue trimming until it fits properly U...

Page 42: ...lve route the tank pickup line to the fueling valve You may need to route the fuel line to the carburetor across the top of the engine mount to prevent the line from being kinked 11 Tape a strip of pa...

Page 43: ...u cover it 2 Inspect all surfaces for uneven glue joints and seams that require filler Apply lightweight balsa filler HCAR3401 where needed Many small dents or scratches in balsa can be repaired by ap...

Page 44: ...tip bend the balsa slightly while you iron the covering on so that when you let the balsa go it will pull the covering tighter This is important After the bottom of the tip is covered cut the coverin...

Page 45: ...tor is centered with the servo arm at 90 degrees to the servo Hint It will be easier to make the Z bend if you disconnect the clevis from the control horn and push the pushrod wire further into the fu...

Page 46: ...and then to the top of the fin Install a strain relief so that the antenna will not be pulling on the solder joint in the receiver 5 Study the photos on the box to decide where to place the decals Tho...

Page 47: ...with some basswood sticks glued to the fuselage sides Our battery was mounted aft of the elevator servo on the fuselage bottom 2 Take the servo arms off your servos turn on your transmitter and recei...

Page 48: ...k an experienced modeler to inspect your radio installation and control surface set up Follow the engine manufacturer s instructions to break in your engine After you run the engine on your model insp...

Page 49: ...re it is fully charged 21 If you wish to photograph your model do this before your first flight 22 Range check your radio when you get to the flying field ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS NOTE Failure to fol...

Page 50: ...he centerline of the runway The rudder is very effective and you should have positive ground control even in moderate crosswinds If you have dual rates on your transmitter set the switch to high rate...

Page 51: ...t flutter you must immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane Check all servo grommets for deterioration this may indicate which surface fluttered and make sure all pushrod linkages are secure...

Page 52: ...2 VIEW Use this layout to plan your trim scheme...

Page 53: ...B C...

Page 54: ...D A...

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