OWNER’S MANUAL
Installation
Installation for a single speaker such as a subwoofer is nearly identical to the
above; however the speaker outputs are bridged, as illustrated below:
The completed installation for the TL-1092 powering two speakers is as
follows:
OWNER’S MANUAL
If you do not have sufficient experience or tools to carry out the installation, it is
strongly advised that you seek the assistance of someone who does, or have the
amplifier professionally installed.
Before starting the installation it is advisable to
disconnect the negative terminal of
the vehicle battery
. This ensures the battery will not short if the wires are accidentally
crossed during installation, and is generally good practice when making electrical changes.
Please be warned that after disconnecting the battery, your control unit (head unit) may
require a code to be entered, some car alarms may also sound. Therefore it is best to
disable the alarm before installation and enable it again after installation is complete.
To complete the installation, an “Amplifier Wiring Kit” is needed (not supplied with the
amplifier); this supplies all necessary cables:
-
Power cable (fused)
-
Ground Cable
-
RCA (phono) cable
-
Remote turn on wire
-
Speaker cable
Connect the power (+) cable
(normally thick red wire) directly to the positive terminal
of your vehicle battery by unscrewing the nut on positive terminal and slipping on the
power lead connector, before replacing and tightening the nut. There should be a fuse
holder and fuse already installed on this wire if purchased as part of a wiring kit. If not,
you will need to install one.
This power cable then needs to be run to where the amplifier will be mounted. Look
around the engine bay for a place to run the cable through to the inside of the vehicle.
Suitable points are usually bonnet pull grommets or air intake holes. This positive wire
needs to be protected from damage. Failure to protect it from damage could lead to a
vehicle fire. When you have been able to feed the cable to the inside of the car, try to
hide the cable as well as possible on its way to the amplifier (under carpet, or inside
panels).
The wiring kit should have supplied connectors to crimp on to the end of the power cable
for connecting it to the amplifier. If you are sure of the positioning of the amplifier, cut
the power cable to length and attach the connector. Un-tighten the power (B+) terminal
of the amplifier, slide the connector in, and then tighten. If there are no connectors
supplied or they are unsuitable, strip the end of the cable and slide the end into the power
(B+) terminal of the amplifier.
Competition Pro amplifiers are capable of delivering extremely high power levels.
Therefore tight, reliable and clean power connections at both ends are very important, and
ensure maximum performance.
Connect the earth (-) (or ground) cable
(normally thick black wire) to a solid, bare
metal point on the vehicle’s chassis. A common place for this is the boot catch; however
any existing bolt or screw that makes contact with the car’s body near the amplifier is
sufficient. If there is no existing point, you can make one by drilling into the car’s body.
This should be done carefully as a last resort, ensuring that none of the car’s electronics or
any other component is going to be damaged. A clean connection is required, so scraping
away the paint for the connection is required. Run the cable to the amplifier and cut it to
length. Connect the power cable to the “GND” terminal on the amplifier using connectors
or the stripped end, as described for the power cable.
