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Connect the remote gain controller

 to the amplifier.  This is optional and not essential.  The 

plug will slot straight in to the “Remote” socket on the amplifier.  The cable needs to be 
sufficiently hidden out of view as it is run to the intended mounting point (usually on the under 
side of the driver’s side dashboard).  It is important to mount the controller in an easily 
accessible location, however it must not hamper the driver in the operation of the vehicle while 
driving. 
 
Once you have checked that all the connections are good and solid, re-connect the negative 
terminal of the battery.  If anything goes wrong, disconnect it immediately and investigate.  
The amplifier’s power LED should be lit.  If not, or the protection LED is lit, please refer to the 
“Troubleshooting” section. 
 
Finally, all that is left to do is 

calibrate the amplifier with the source unit

1.

 

If using the remote gain controller, turn the knob fully clockwise to “MAX”. 

2.

 

Turn the gain knob on the amplifier all the way down 

3.

 

Play a CD or similar of music or audio that will be typically played 

4.

 

Turn the gain control on the source unit to around 70 – 80% of it’s maximum 

5.

 

Slowly increase the gain knob on the amplifier until you can hear distortion 

6.

 

Turn the gain knob on the amplifier to just before this distortion occurs (if no distortion 
can be heard, this is fine!). 

7.

 

Test the system and make any equalisation changes on the source unit or the amplifier 
according to taste, it may take some time to adjust all the amplifier settings to get the 
most from the setup. 

8.

 

If any equalisation changes are made, repeat stages 1 to 7 until satisfied 

9.

 

Never exceed the source unit gain that you used to calibrate the system

 

 

Remember:

 It is possible for the amplifier gain knob to be at only a quarter of its maximum, 

but the amplifier is actually outputting to its full potential.  This could be because the source 
unit is supplying slightly more input power than normally expected.

 

Bridging 

 

Below is a diagram illustrating how two TL-1023 amplifiers can be bridged together.  Please 
see the next page for bridging instructions. 
 

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OWNER’S MANUAL 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

needs to be protected from damage.  Failure to protect it from damage could lead to a 
vehicle fire.  When you have been able to feed the cable to the inside of the car, try to 
hide the cable as well as possible on its way to the amplifier (under carpet, or inside 
panels). 
The TL-1191 kit includes a connector already installed on the end of the power cable for 
connecting it to amplifiers with old style terminal connectors.  This will not fit the TL-1023, 
so cut the connector off, strip the end of the cable, un-tighten the power (B+) terminal of 
the amplifier, slide the stripped cable in, and then tighten. 
 
Competition Pro amplifiers are capable of delivering extremely high power levels.  
Therefore tight, reliable and clean power connections at both ends are very important, and 
ensure maximum performance. 
 

Connect the earth (-) (or ground) cable

 (4 AWG black cable) to a solid, bare metal 

point on the vehicle’s chassis.  A common place for this is the boot catch; however any 
existing substantial bolt or screw that makes contact with the car’s body near the amplifier 
is sufficient.  If there is no existing point, you can make one by drilling into the car’s body.  
This should be done carefully as a last resort, ensuring that none of the car’s electronics or 
any other component is going to be damaged.  A clean connection is needed, so scraping 
away the paint for the connection is required.  The length of the earth cable needs to be a 
short as possible, the one supplied with the TL-1191 kit will connect straight to the 
negative amplifier terminal, the other end has a ring connector installed and is to be bolted 
to the earthing point. 
 

Connect the remote cable

 (thin blue wire) from the source unit (head unit’s) remote 

output.  This is called a variety of things including “remote”, “aerial”, “electric antenna”, 
“REM” and “remote turn on”.  To do this you will need to have access to the back of the 
source unit; it will need pulled out.  Please refer to the source unit’s manual to find the 
right wire to use. 
When the remote cable is attached to the remote output of the source unit, leave the 
source unit pulled out for the moment, and run the remote cable to where the amplifier is, 
down the same side of the vehicle as the power cable.  As with the power cable, try to hide 
it under panels and carpet.  Slide the connector into the “REM” terminal and tighten. 
 

Connect the audio signal lead

 (RCA phono lead) to the “line level” or “pre-out” of the 

source unit.  The pre-out of the source unit should be in the form of two RCA phono 
sockets.  Simply plug your lead into the sockets, ensuring red goes to red, and white (or 
black) goes to white (or black).  Then run the lead all the way to the amplifier.  To 
minimise noise, please ensure that the audio signal lead is run well away from the power 
leads.  It is normally best to 

run it down the opposite side of the car

.  

If the cables 

are too close, a high pitched whine can get into the system; this is engine noise. 

If your source unit has no pre-outs, it is probable that it is not of sufficient quality to work 
well with the amplifier; if it is giving poor quality audio then the amplifier will simply 
amplify this poor quality audio.  However, if a line output converter is purchased, it would 
convert speaker outputs to a line level and enable you to operate the amplifier.  As 
mentioned, the output may not be of a great quality. 
 

Connect the subwoofer speaker cable

 from your subwoofer(s) to the amplifier.  Some 

subwoofer configurations are illustrated on page 5, please see your subwoofer manual for 
in-depth connection configurations.  It is advisable to cut the subwoofer speaker cable to 
size.  

Never connect or disconnect subwoofer(s) when the amplifier is on

; you risk 

permanently damaging the subwoofer(s). 
 

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OWNER’S MANUAL 

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