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Installation
To install and calibrate your MeterMatch, you will need to expose the circuit by removing the small #1
Phillips-head screw in the bottom center of the enclosure. Take care that the circuit board doesn't
touch any metal which could short things out, and when finally installed, make sure it is in a dry spot
that doesn't get overly hot.
It is wired by connecting to a screw-terminal strip inside. You will need a small straight-blade
screwdriver (tip width less than .15"). It accommodates wire sizes from #14 AWG to #22 AWG.
Wires in the mid area of this range, for example #18 AWG, work well.
MeterMatch only requires four wires with signals that are usually available near the back of the
gauge. The signals are connected to the terminal strip positions:
Pin 5
Alarm signal (typically not used)
Pin 4
From Sender (input to MeterMatch)
Pin 3
To gauge (output from MeterMatch)
Pin 2
Ground – ensure that it is well grounded
Pin 1
+12V (switched by ignition) – requires only a few mA
Calibration
Once wired, it is necessary to calibrate your MeterMatch to tailor it to your sender and gauge. As
shipped, default values are in place for switch positions 1 and 4.
The rotary switch
Ѳ
positions are used as follows:
0
Normal operation after calibration
1
High calibration point
2
Mid-high calibration point (typically not used)
3
Mid-low calibration point (typically not used)
4
Low calibration point
5
Alarm high calibration point (typically not used)
6
Alarm low calibration point (typically not used)
Note: If you are having trouble seeing the arrow on the rotary switch, you can always find the 0
position since the LED is off in that position, and on for all others.
In addition to the terminal strip and rotary switch, you will find three push-buttons:
Up
Moves the meter needle one direction
Dn
Moves the meter needle the other direction
Save
Stores the calibration point presently selected
