Departing the Site
1. Pull forward, test brakes (if controller installed)
You may need to back slightly to relieve pressure on the
chock or dismount the level wedges. When ready, pull
forward one rig length. This uncovers your spot in
addition to testing the brakes.
2. Stow leveling wedges & chock
3. Lock external storage hatch
Once the chocks and leveling wedges are stowed, you
are done with the external storage door.
4. Check all doors closed & locked
Walk around checking the windows, doors, and covers
are closed. Check the connections to the tow vehicle.
5. Check step stowed
Make sure the step is secure UP and will not deploy
while underway.
6. Check site for forgotten objects & cleanliness
Always leave the site clean.
7. Consider draining fresh water
Consider emptying the trailer water on the last leg of
the trip. Open the tank drain in front of the passenger
side tire. Open the “Cold Water Dump” and “Hot Water
Dump” under the sink. Do not store the trailer with
stagnate water. Consider opening the hot water pressure
relief (yellow lever) if the system is cold.
Dumping Considerations
Dumping requires planning. All tanks will dump better if
the tank is full, at least 75% full. Consider the length of line
at the dump station. Sometimes dumping arriving at the
next camp site may be the better choice if the interval
between trips is less than one month. If using a fully
biological tank treatment, waiting between dumping may be
possible. Longer than four weeks between trips consider
dump before storing. The longer between dumps, the
greater the probability of bad odors. If you need to dump
the black tank before it is full, add water volume to the
black tank until at least 75% full. One weekend, 2 nights, in
the summer is approximately ⅓ of a black tank for us.
When treating the black tank a biological, bacteria based,
treatment is preferred. A bacterial treatment will last longer.
The enzymes and salt in most black tank treatments will
break everything down and the salt kills bacteria causing
odor but wears out in 20 days or so. If the tank is left for
more than 3 weeks the treatment will stop working and
“stuff” will begin generating odors. Read all the labels
carefully; the titles and the contents often don’t agree.
Clean the black tank thoroughly if changing from a
chemical or enzyme only treatment to a bacterial treatment.
Biological treatments are preferred because they work
better, last longer, and are less poisonous when dumped.
The gray tank will flush better if more full; however, soap
scum and grease will coat the inside of the tank to a higher
level. Letting it sit for a while will cause the scum and
grease to stick more. This causes your fluid level indicator
to read poorly.
To clean gray tank sensors, periodically add not more than
¼ cup each, Ultra Dawn and some vinegar (optional) to the
gray tank. Then add water to a 75% capacity. Tow to the
camp site to agitate the cleaning solution. Dump upon
arrival. If this didn’t work, try a black tank treatment. This
will clean the tank; however, it will not clean the pipe from
the gray tank to the dump valve. It is too narrow for the
agitation to be effective.
320 CS “Just Enough” Users Guide revised Dec 2023
page 3