Setup, calibrating and integration
W
hat’s
to know? Well, first of all, setting up an SV Subwoofer is
pretty darn easy. There are a few key things to get right though, if you
want to get the most out of your sub…
U
npacking.
You’re probably eager to fire up your sub (we’re the
same way), but take time to carefully unpack your sub. Set the box and
other protective shipping coverings aside, just in case you need to return
the sub for any reason. Collapse and fold your box flat for storage.
L
ocation.
They say it’s ALL about location right? It’s the same with
setting up your subwoofer. So, where to put it?
Go for a corner
if you
can, and avoid putting your sub where it might adjoin large open areas
.
Studies have shown that the deepest and flattest bass response is
typically attained when a subwoofer is placed within a few feet of one
of your home theater’s corners. The compact configuration of SVS’s
makes this easy. Whether you put the sub in front or to the rear of your
seating area makes surprisingly little difference. Deep home theater
bass, like that from Dolby Digital (DD) “5.1 channel” DVDs and digital
audio is practically non-directional. You can’t tell where it is coming
from, even though you can hear, and feel it (and how!).
H
ook-up (see fig. 1).
There are a variety of ways to configure your
new sub. Usually, a simple mono, shielded 75 Ohm A/V RCA type
cable (a.) is used to take the subwoofer output of your DD/DTS
surround sound receiver
(b.)
and feed the low-level input of the sub’s
amp. There is no need to “split” the signal going to the PB1. You can
feed either one of the two amp inputs, it doesn’t matter, right or left.
Page 4
SV Subwoofers
DD/DTS Processor/Receiver
(Subwoofer “Out”)
Fig. 1
(a.)
(b.)
NOTE:
Stop now if you aren’t
TOTALLY familiar with your receiver’s
manual. Ensure all power to your
equipment is off when making these connec-
tions. Also, be certain your power outlet can
handle a minimum of 350 watts. (Use of
“convenience outlets” on receivers are not
recommended for your SVS.)
!
