5
Only use good quality, clean fertile hatching eggs
-
Do not store eggs for longer than 7 days before incubating
. On average, one day’s storage
adds one hour to incubation time. This must be taken into account when eggs are set, so fresh and
stored eggs should be set at different times
-
The longer you store the eggs, the lower the hatch rate
. Hatchability is depressed by
prolonged storage. The effect increases with storage time after the initial six-day period,
resulting in losses of 0.5 to 1.5% per day with the percent increasing as storage extends
further
- Use eggs from good medium aged flock
– young birds produce small eggs which are not ideal for
incubation. Older flock produce eggs which have lower hatchability
-
Only set eggs which are uniform and clean
. Never set “dirty” eggs – eggs with visible manure
on, as you will introduce pathogens into the incubator
-
Don’t wipe eggs before setting as you will close the egg pores which they need to breathe
through
– rather use a brush to clean eggs
- If you smell a bad egg, remove immediately and discard
- Candle eggs after 10 days in the incubator to check for fertility. Eggs cannot be checked for
fertility before 10 days in the incubator
-
Remove eggs which are not fertile
as they can potentially become “poppers” – eggs that burst
and release pathogens
-
Don’t use a permanent marker when marking eggs
. The egg can absorb the toxic chemicals in the
permanent marker which leads to potential early death. Rather write on the plastic tray
- Never mix waterfowl (like duck eggs) with dry or game fowl (like chickens) in the same incubator or
hatcher. Waterfowl have potential pathogens on their shells which may negatively affect chicken
eggs and cause early deaths of embryos
-
Place eggs with their sharp end pointing downwards
both in storage as well as when placing in
the incubator
