a)
Remove original master cylinder and save clevis and associated hardware.
b)
If kit has been ordered with power brake option, line up booster to determine which bolts
require removal to allow attachment to fire wall. Remove four bolts and install booster
(do not tighten fasteners at this time). Assemble jam nuts and clevis onto booster input
shaft before final tightening.
c)
Align holes of clevis with lower hole in brake pedal arm. Adjust clevis to allow 1/8" end
play and assure that stop light switch is still in adjustment.
d)
The most convenient vacuum source for the booster is the engine intake manifold. The
minimum vacuum developed by the engine, at idle, should be no less than 18"hg. In
addition, the rubber hose between the intake manifold and the booster must be rated
for vacuum service and have an outside diameter of no less than 11/32”
e)
An extension rod is supplied for those vehicles that need longer pushrods. (3/8-24
thread).
7)
Master cylinder
a)
Always
bench bleed master cylinder before installing in car and refer to the separate
"Master Cylinder Installation Instructions."
b)
If new brake lines are required for proper connections, use only approved steel
"Budyweld" or stainless steel. Pre-flared lengths of "Bundyweld" are supplied in the kit
with the most common fittings used with 1967-74 GM vehicles.
c)
An adjustable proportioning valve, necessary for front to rear brake balancing, is also
included in the kit. The prop. valve should be installed in the rear brake line,
after the
stock distribution block.
Turning the knob in the "decrease" direction will reduce line
pressure to the rear drum brakes and prevent premature rear brake "lock-up".
REFER TO THE PROPORTIONING VALVE INSTRUCTIONS FOR PROPER
ADJUSTMENT AND INSTALLATION.
d)
The rear line uses the smaller reservoir on the master cylinder and is usually located
closest to the firewall. “In” towards the master cylinder, “out” towards rear line.
e)
The longer line is installed between the front master cylinder port and the original
distribution block port that serves the front brakes.
f)
Because there are a great number of line routings and distribution block locations for
the various GM car models and years that accept this kit, it is likely that there may be
more line length than required for the perfect installation. Any additional line length
may be bent into a loop to fit or shortened by cutting and re-flaring the line.
8)
Brake fluid and bleeding the system
a)
After completing all hydraulic connections, install new brake fluid (at master cylinder
reservoir). Remove the master cylinder and bench bleed the master cylinder. Pump
brake pedal several times to initially fill the system and advance the caliper pistons to
their working position.
WHEN BLEEDING THE SYSTEM, PUMP FLUID SLOWLY INTO THE NEW
SYSTEM. IF FLUID “FOAMS”, IT WILL TAKE A LOT OF FLUID TO BLEED THE
BRAKES. SOFT PEDAL IS A RESULT OF POOR BLEEDING. TAKE YOUR TIME!
8A)
Bleeding the system
A123, A123-1, -1C, A123-3, A123-4, A123-5, A123-58, A123-59
Revision 7
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