11
inputs, then connect the 14/4 speaker wire from the
kitchen speakers into the Speaker Block Connector
plugged into the first amp pair.
10. If the AC cord is disconnected, then reconnect it.
11. Push the power rocker switch up to the ON position.
12. With the source volume turned down to a low,
speaker friendly level, turn on the amplifier and play
music. If you do not hear any sound, refer to the ‘No
Audio’ section of the troubleshooting chapter.
13. Follow the steps in the chapter entitled, ‘Protecting
Speakers from Becoming Damaged’.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Recommended Troubleshooting Tools
•
A small flat blade jewelers screwdriver for the screws
in the Speaker Block Connector.
•
A pair of verified working RCA interconnect cables.
•
A single or a pair of verified working test speakers,
such as Sonance Mariners.
•
A short run of 14/2 or 14/4 speaker wire to connect the
local test speaker, 6-10’ (1.8-3m) in length.
•
AC ‘Cheater’ plug to temporarily lift an AC ground.
•
Optional multimeter to read short circuits, open
circuits and to take speaker resistance and continuity
measurements.
MULTIMETER TEST FOR OPEN AND
SHORTED WIRE AND SPEAKERS
The measurement will be across the two-conductor
speaker wires leading to a speaker in the remote zone.
The two wires and the speaker comprise a circuit.
Connection of a multimeter will complete the circuit. If
working with a four-conductor wire, then test one set of
wires and its speaker at a time.
PLEASE NOTE: A SPEAKER WITH A SWITCHABLE HIGH-
PASS FILTER IN THE CROSSOVER, SUCH AS AN AS38R/S
OR VP38R/S, WILL NEED TO HAVE THE SWITCH IN THE
OFF POSITION TO TAKE A DCR READING. OTHERWISE, THE
CAPACITOR IN THE HIGH PASS FILTER WILL BLOCK THE DC
SENT FROM THE METER AND THE LOAD WILL SHOW ‘OPEN’.
REMEMBER TO SET THE HIGH PASS FILTER SWITCH BACK TO
ON AFTER TAKING THE DCR READING.
1. Turn off the amplifier before connecting or
disconnecting any cabling.
2. Disconnect the speaker wires from the Speaker
Block Connector.
3. Set multimeter to measure DC, apply the meter
probes across the two-conductor speaker wire for
one of the channels not producing sound. Use the
red meter probe for the “+” wire and the black probe
for the “–” wire. This will test the wiring and the
connected speaker for any issue.
4. If the meter reads ‘INFINITE’ or very high resistance,
then the circuit is open. No continuity exists between
the speaker wires and the speaker. Either the wire
is open (cut) somewhere between the amp and the
speaker, the speaker is not physically connected
to both wires or the speaker has become severely
compromised (open/blown voice coil from excessive
bass).
5. If the DC measurement is zero or close to zero, then
the circuit (wire and speaker) has become shorted
somewhere. This could be from a staple shorting
across the speaker wires or the speakers have been
severely damaged by excessive power or over-
excursion from too much bass resulting in a short.
6. If the DC measurement is between 6-8 Ohms (for a
single 8 Ohm speaker), then the circuit has continuity
and the problem is internal.
7. A speaker from the zone can also be tested directly
as above for continuity. If the speaker is installed
in a ceiling or wall, then remove it. Apply the
meter probes directly across the “+” and “–” input
terminals of the speaker. Most 8 Ohm speakers will
measure between 5-7 Ohms of DC resistance. If the
measurement is close to zero (shorted) or infinite
(open), then the speaker will need to be replaced.
TROUBLESHOOTING: NO POWER
Potential Reasons
•
The AC cord for the amplifier is not fully inserted into
the IEC power connector on the amp’s back panel.
•
The AC outlet is connected to is not active or its
GFCI circuit has been tripped (Ground Fault Circuit
Interrupt).
•
The power switch on the rear panel is set to the
‘down’ off position.
The 16-50 and 8-50 are shipped with the Power Sense
switch set to OFF. When the amplifier is plugged into
a live AC outlet and the rear panel power switch is
depressed, the front panel power status ‘A’ indicator
should illuminate.
Steps to Resolve
If the front panel ‘A’ power status indicator does not
illuminate:
1. Double-check that the amp’s AC power rocker
switch is in the up on position.
2. Ensure the detachable AC cord connector is fully
inserted into the back panel IEC power receptacle.
3. Check if the AC cord’s male plug is plugged into a
live working AC outlet. If necessary, plug another
appliance such as a lamp into the same AC outlet as
the amplifier. If the lamp does not light, then the AC
outlet’s circuit breaker or GFCI circuit may need to
be reset or the outlet otherwise evaluated for proper
functionality.
4. Remove the amp and take it to another location in
the residence. Plug it into a different, known working
