.
Therefore, we feel the present system of covering main assemblies in a unit works out best for the majority of kit builders.So
keep in mind that the numbering sequence used in these instructions were chosen as the best way of explaining the building of
each major assembly and is not intended to be followed in exact one-two-three fashion. Start on the wing at No.1 and after
doing as many steps as is convenient, flip over to the next main heading of "FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION" and do a step or
two there, then over to "TAIL SURFACES" and so forth. You will, of course, arrive at points where you can go no farther until
another component is available. For example, you need a nearly completed wing before the fuselage can be entirely completed.
And you will need both the wing and stab to fit the wing and tail saddles on the fuselage and align them to each other. The way
to understand these relationships is to read the instructions completely and study the full size plan before beginning to work.
Think ahead! Any reference to right or left refers to right or left as if seated in the cockpit.
SOME BUILDING SUGGESTIONS
Cut all long pieces of balsa first, followed by medium lengths before cutting up any full-length strips into short pieces.
A piece of Celotex-type wallboard or foam board makes a handy building board, into which pins can easily be pushed. Lay the
building board on a table with a flat and untwisted top. Don't be afraid to use plenty of pins when planking. The holes will fill up
during sanding and doping. Use Sig-Bond glue for general construction except where the instructions call for epoxy.
YOU CAN'T GET ALONG WITHOUT A GOOD SANDING BLOCK
An indispensable tool for proper construction is a large sanding block sized to take
a full sheet of sandpaper. Use several wood screws along one edge to hold the
sheet in place. Use the block to bring all parts and sticks to final, exact fit. We
recommend 80-grit garnet paper for use on the block during general construction.
You can switch to 100-grit, followed by 220 silicone paper for final finish just before
covering.
In addition to the large block, there are places where a smaller one is handy. Also,
a sandpaper "file" can be made by gluing sandpaper to a flat spruce stick for
working tight-places.
A modeling knife or jig saw can be used for cutting out printed parts. Don't cut too close to the lines - leave some extra wood
outside the lines. True up and finish the edges with a sanding block as you are fitting the parts together. Don't force die-cut parts
from the sheet. Use a modeling knife to finish freeing them.
ABOUT PRINTED WOOD PARTS
Some years ago we had kits featuring die-cut parts in both thick and thin sizes. If the thick parts were cut from dry wood, the
wood often crushed or crinkled on the edges, even when using a brand new die. If the thick parts were cut from wet wood
there was an improvement - though many of them still crushed - and the swelled wet wood parts changed shape after drying,
making them inaccurate. So we asked modelers if they would rather have the parts printed on the wood instead. They could
be cut in a few minutes with a saw or modeling kinife and thus avoid any "die-crunching." Most voted in favour of this idea.
To answer the question we are sometimes asked - no, we do not print parts on wood to save money. It is actually more
expensive to print the parts using a silk screen press than it is to run an equivalent sheet through our automatic feed die
cutting machine. If we hand-sawed the parts it would be even more expensive and the labor cost would have to be added to
the kit price. We believe that most modelers would rather cut their own out and save the cost. Since there are not many thick
parts in our average kit, it really doesn't consume a lot of the total building time for the builder to do the parts.
NOTE:
Some of the pictures in the instruction sequence are of the Kougar because the operation being performed is identical on both
models. Also, some of the King Kobra pictures may show a retract gear installation in the background. Ignore these areas if you
are using a fixed gear, the construction step shown in the picture is the same for both types.
WING CONSTRUCTION
1.
True up the edges of the twelve sheets of 1/16"x4"x30" wing planking wood by trimming where necessary, using a metal
straightedge as a guide. Use the sanding block for final touch-up.
2.
Tape 6 sheets tightly together with strips of masking tape.
3.
Turn over and open up the joints, with the masking tape serving as a hinge. Put a bead of Sig Bond in each of the seams
and close the joint.