Troubleshooting Guide
ENGINE DOES NOT START
Does the engine
crank?
Faulty recoil starter.
Fluid in the crankcase.
Internal damage.
Consult with an authorized
servicing dealer.
Consult with an authorized
servicing dealer.
Consult with an authorized
servicing dealer.
NO
Good
compression?
Loose spark plug.
Excess wear or damage
to cylinder, piston, rings.
Tighten and re-test.
NO
YES
Does the tank
contain fresh
fuel of the
proper grade?
Refill with fresh, clean unleaded gasoline
with a pump octane of 87 or higher
mixed with a 2-cycle air cooled mixing
oil that meets or exceeds ISO-L-EGD
and/or JASO FC classified oils at
50:1 gasoline/oil ratio.
Fuel incorrect, stale, or
contaminated; mixture
incorrect.
NO
YES
Is fuel visible
and moving in
the return line
when priming?
Check for clogged fuel
filter and/or vent.
Clean as required;
restart.
NO
Is there spark at
the spark plug
wire terminal?
The ignition switch
is in “O” (OFF) position.
Shorted ignition ground.
Faulty ignition unit.
Move switch to “I” (ON)
position and re-start.
NO
YES
YES
Check the
spark plug.
If the plug is wet, excess
fuel may be in the
cylinder.
The plug is fouled
or improperly gapped.
The plug is damaged
internally or of the
wrong size.
Crank the engine with the
plug removed, replace the
plug, and re-start.
Clean and re-gap the plug to
0.024 inch (0.6 mm). Re-start.
Replace the plug with a CJ8 or equivalent
resistor type spark plug of the correct
heat range. Set spark plug electrode
gap to 0.024-0.028 inch (0.6-0.7 mm).
For Electromagnetic compliance
(EMC) use NGK BMR6A. Restart.
YES
What To Check
Possible Cause
Remedy
20
TROUBLESHOOTING
Summary of Contents for M231
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