Copyright ©2008, Seymour Products LLC,
www.seymourav.com
, All rights reserved.
Troubleshooting
Ice Block amps feature multiple levels of protection and monitoring to survive difficult
environments. All of the protection circuits are self-resetting with the exception of the “HF on
output” circuit that only activates in case of a failure or large capacitive load (>470nF).
Amp plays music, light is dead
Something is wrong with just the indicator light or its separate power supply. Send it in
and we’ll fix it.
Amp is completely dead
Disconnect all inputs and outputs and see if it powers up.
o
If so, then it’s protecting itself from something in those connections. Check for
shorts.
o
If not, then either the interior fuse is blown or something else internal is wrong.
Send it in for repair.
Disconnect power and see if it powers up. If it does, it’s haunted. Send it in for an
exorcism.
Sound is low in gain or noisy
Check that the input selector switch is in the proper position. Getting this wrong will cut
your signal strength and cause ground noise.
Amp shuts off due to heat
The amp is protected by multiple temperature sensors and will shut off at 122°F (50°C).
If you are hitting this limit too quickly and too often, you need to provide a more cooling
environment for your amps. Un-stack them, get them out of a rack, away from other
equipment, more air space, possibly blow a fan on them, or turning them off between
uses are possible fixes. Due to their high efficiency, high radiative cooling from the
bottom chassis, and generally low average power levels that music actually plays at,
overheating ICEpower amps is quite hard to do.
Red clip LED is on too often
You are either overloading the inputs (+/- 12.8V max) or the output stage. Either reduce
the output from your preamp (a volume knob comes in handy for this) or invest in more
power to increase your dynamic headroom.
