7
Assembly Guide
Cabinet:
The construction of the KingRO4Y kit is fairly open ended, it could be entirely completed with some
basic tools such as a router, plunge saw and drill with some additional accessories or completed
using CNC which a CAD file is included for on the website. The construction uses two standard
(1220*2440) sheets of 18mm Birch Ply (as many layers of laminate as possible) or MDF.
If using MDF it is recommended to paint with a reasonably thick drying paint or line with a veneer as
MDF is very susceptible to moisture damage and is not very aesthetic.
The schematic plans include suggestion of rebates, these improve the overall integrity of the cabinet
and reduce the chance of air leakage between the low and mid rear chambers and the amplifier
chamber, so are advised. The prototype cabinets used a rebate depth of 8mm.
Rebates can be done with fairly simple tools so if you don’t have access to a router then you can still
use a plunge saw or table saw if you can set the depth of the blade. By carefully completing multiple
passes the size of thickness of the saw blade then cleaning up afterwards with a chisel, file and
sandpaper you can achieve the same effect as using a router with jig or guide. When rebating, it is
advisable to leave between 0.5mm and 1mm over the thickness of the board used to allow for glue
expansion and irregularities in the thickness of the board.
*NB: It is important to remember that when rebating, all the internal bracing must be adjusted in size
wherever it is to be inserted into a rebate joint, leaving again between 0.5mm and 1mm for glue.
To recess the drive units and amplifier plate a minimum of a router is required (otherwise a jigsaw
can be used to cut the basic mounting hole). When routing the cut-
out’s inner and outer diameters it
is necessary to route the outer diameter first- otherwise you lose your fixed centre point.
If rebating the internal bracing it is not necessary to use screws or fixtures for the cabinet, if rebates
are not used then it is advised to clamp or vice panels in place and pilot drill through the first panel
into the connecting join before gluing and screwing in place to ensure minimal movement in the
panels when screwing.
*NB: Dry assembly, i.e. without glue, is always advised regardless of build method. If you are not
using screws or fixtures this can be done with Sellotape or masking tape without tarnishing the
material.
Amplifier set-up and driver mounting:
Once the loudspeaker cabinet structure is complete it comes to assembling the amplifier plate,
Hypex have very informative documentation on all their products available online so do not be afraid
to check that out when preparing the FA503 for mounting.
The way the presets are set-up is specific so,
Channel 1
–
Low Frequency -
L26RO4Y
Channel 2
–
Mid Frequency -
C18EN002/A
- Midrange
(terminals attached to the basket of the driver; you should be able to see the lead-outs from the
terminal attach to the outer voice coil)
Channel 3
–
High Frequency -
C18EN002/A
- Tweeter
