The speaker outputs on Ragnarok
are all active. That means there
are no grounds. That means if the
grounds are shorted together, it
will put Ragnarok into fault mode.
This can happen with shorted
speaker wires.
When Ragnarok is in fault mode,
the front LEDs will flash and there
will be no output. Check your
speaker connections for shorts
and try again.
If that doesn’t work, disconnect
your speakers entirely, and unplug
any headphones. If the amp comes
out of fault mode at that point,
then there’s something wrong with
your speakers, speaker wiring, or
headphone wiring.
IN CASE YOU
MISSED IT
8 Speaker Outputs.
Connect these to your
speakers. Please note
that the “ground”
terminals (black
terminals) are not
really ground—they’re
separate power
amplifier outputs for
balanced drive. That
means you should
never connect them to
a speaker system with
a shared ground, nor
should you ever try to
“bridge” the output—
this will put Ragnarok
in protection mode,
and that’ll be the
twilight of your sound
for a while.
9 Power Switch. Up
for on, down for off.
Very simple. There are
no fancy “power down”
modes with Ragnarok,
just on or off. When
you first turn on the
amp, expect up to a
30 second delay as
it performs a system
check and sets
operational levels
on the amplifier. The
LEDs will flash as
these checks and
adjustments are being
performed.
10 Fuse Tray.
Replace only with a
3A slo-blow style
fuse, 5 x 20mm in
size. Fuses usually
don’t blow without a
reason, so we strongly
suggest that you
check your system for
faults, such as shorted
speaker wires, before
turning the amp back
on again. And—we re-
ally shouldn’t have to
say this—only replace
the fuse with the amp
unplugged!
11 Power Cord. Plug
the end of the supplied
IEC cord in here. You
can also use fancy
audiophile types, but
they won’t really do
anything—what about
the thousands of feet
of crap copper cables
in your walls, huh?
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